tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5191731246377326922024-03-18T05:48:41.469-04:00Sew Much Fashion
Why settle when you can make your own fabulous fashionTomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.comBlogger55125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-65253505176528369612018-01-15T16:37:00.002-05:002018-01-15T22:00:08.760-05:00Corduroy Pants with a Lively TopThe idea for this particular top and pant combo has been simmering in my head for quite some time, since November 2016 to be exact!<br />
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The fabric for the top is a cotton jersey purchased at NY Elegant a couple of years ago. It was the last on the bolt so I am happy to have snapped it up. I love the colors. I used my self-drafted knit top pattern. For the neckband finish, I used the neckband technique I wrote about in a<span style="color: blue;"> <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2015/05/raglan-t-shirt.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous post</span>.</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ghIqLKWB2CwUpJljtIj1qCCfvhTaF5hVjEWalgqvsBhUbgcKaxGvRaQX8RKA62Wi1T54l1kZcTUsTYEUjVC4WwKZZmbDUq5JuTj8v5GMo3pefX4mB0RJLY2Klv-tsLRNobZmCDJLBBYN/s1600/Front+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="970" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ghIqLKWB2CwUpJljtIj1qCCfvhTaF5hVjEWalgqvsBhUbgcKaxGvRaQX8RKA62Wi1T54l1kZcTUsTYEUjVC4WwKZZmbDUq5JuTj8v5GMo3pefX4mB0RJLY2Klv-tsLRNobZmCDJLBBYN/s640/Front+1.jpg" width="388" /></a></div>
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For the pants, I used a very soft fine wale corduroy purchased at Mood Fabrics in NYC also purchased in 2016. It feels so soft - I love the fabric. I used the Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans pattern for the pants (View B). I have used this pattern previously in a denim muslin <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2017/03/ginger-skinny-jeans-wearable-muslin.html"><span style="color: blue;">(click here)</span></a> and was overall happy with the fit. However, each fabric has its own unique properties which cause it to behave and fit differently and thus was the case here. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPMPYYU1xHUuGoX7ivawa_o-NvE1mheCZvIMdwufDU5rzs8O08v5h_RQb0KS_YLY1TRv7qb9RZNprPciLVGKsIu_6yJQiWbb_kstPRFYdA2fKD4h5eze65z3voGCyyMyIIIGfROcQZy4K/s1600/Front+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1031" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPMPYYU1xHUuGoX7ivawa_o-NvE1mheCZvIMdwufDU5rzs8O08v5h_RQb0KS_YLY1TRv7qb9RZNprPciLVGKsIu_6yJQiWbb_kstPRFYdA2fKD4h5eze65z3voGCyyMyIIIGfROcQZy4K/s640/Front+1.jpg" width="409" /></a></div>
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While I know that slim fitting pants tend to have more wrinkles in the back, and you need some ease in order to walk, I think I have a little too much fabric in the back, particularly below the derrierre. The corduroy fabric was softer and lighter in weight than the denim. It also had slightly less stretch. I also did not want the pants to be too snug. I believe all of these characterics caused it to fit differently.<br />
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Also, I deliberately made the pants a little longer than I needed (which contributes to the wrinkling around the ankles) because I have discovered that even though I pre-shrink fabric, there sometimes occurs "residual shrinkage" once the garment is laundered again. This is especially the case with cotton fabrics like this one. Once I wash these a couple of times, I will determine whether I need to shorten the hem.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7CPY1ccXKeIhr2Ut9DvIOlVrV1uZzzxFPCZlI1fwSW-deHhrllmo8Tl4pf6cUWoVDfQtlpZVipAerhcsWdnzsK31PEoxiiyt3oXiBMlrpQiBB2jtpmh-1IeEvPl1C4BEr3-zGkkUkwbnK/s1600/Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="989" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7CPY1ccXKeIhr2Ut9DvIOlVrV1uZzzxFPCZlI1fwSW-deHhrllmo8Tl4pf6cUWoVDfQtlpZVipAerhcsWdnzsK31PEoxiiyt3oXiBMlrpQiBB2jtpmh-1IeEvPl1C4BEr3-zGkkUkwbnK/s640/Back.jpg" width="393" /></a></div>
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Despite the fit issues in the back (which is normal for me), I like the pants overall and will wear them. <br />
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I used a fun animal print cotton I had in my stash for the waistband facing and fly shield. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7Ln-MAvLzIGWRinkJsMD2TokgANXkybC2goDugru2J1e82LaTn6q7FI9-_xj2cCd98nZhSgBxNOQvJAj8zcIu_R3XKWSWNTi0s3DNM4wUWIwKhId3x_K3-9A_xdhhQwfSzWm7F7aUVzR/s1600/closeup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7Ln-MAvLzIGWRinkJsMD2TokgANXkybC2goDugru2J1e82LaTn6q7FI9-_xj2cCd98nZhSgBxNOQvJAj8zcIu_R3XKWSWNTi0s3DNM4wUWIwKhId3x_K3-9A_xdhhQwfSzWm7F7aUVzR/s640/closeup.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The zipper was longer than what I needed so I cut off the excess.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJp3LL7Xq-Mzn1TUAFkysCXc9GwQCEPR9rCUKWY67KiTxzU5PMDBpzvNciEyte67-EOP81KI4hR4f79NF4VgyQeqsMpuy42YDiLfSboqBGpPWsew3gLo3-fTyLFGqnIoh-DqB6uAMm6CCU/s1600/tape+removed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJp3LL7Xq-Mzn1TUAFkysCXc9GwQCEPR9rCUKWY67KiTxzU5PMDBpzvNciEyte67-EOP81KI4hR4f79NF4VgyQeqsMpuy42YDiLfSboqBGpPWsew3gLo3-fTyLFGqnIoh-DqB6uAMm6CCU/s320/tape+removed.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I usually just sew across the zipper tape (very carefully) but this time I wanted to try something different. I did not want to have those metal zipper teeth inside the waistband so I decided to remove them and add stops at the end. I purchased the tools at a sewing expo some years ago but you can find these supplies at WAWAK.com or Cleanersupply.com. Below on the left are the nippers and the zipper teeth I removed as well as the pliers I used to attach the zipper stops.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJIqJzrptB1BddPdadJP5TY3bts-Kk3pYy5baM8-t8DrqubalCe5JBx6A4LsGYndqk9RAvf7s7R4q_MEcoC-adnYScBo2HL72fMjbEMlYZde8rvEFPtiWvHbkA3VuFMrTC-gzp7F48N2XK/s1600/zipper+teeth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJIqJzrptB1BddPdadJP5TY3bts-Kk3pYy5baM8-t8DrqubalCe5JBx6A4LsGYndqk9RAvf7s7R4q_MEcoC-adnYScBo2HL72fMjbEMlYZde8rvEFPtiWvHbkA3VuFMrTC-gzp7F48N2XK/s320/zipper+teeth.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Based on my denim muslin, I discovered that I needed a full calf adjustment. I also found that a curved waistband hugged my waist better and with no gaping. I created the curved waistband by pinning a tuck on my muslin where I needed it to determine how much I needed to take in. The tuck went from the top of the waistband to nothing at the seam where you sew the waistband to the pant. I transferred this alteration to the waistband pattern. These adjustments resulted with the waistband taking a curved shape which worked well for me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSZ4iHuImkOsNpRML-Rdx7NLkqxBuH94qLrrkMivRkDqIy2Ie_EEqeAeGt1nlYV4551zXTnPLeaM9hPKb2vSi37wFN5CZJfSsXure6VZ20H3Bhwl-IkDtCOMw0-AaYrnlR2PCSBGSzIffe/s1600/Waistband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1146" data-original-width="1600" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSZ4iHuImkOsNpRML-Rdx7NLkqxBuH94qLrrkMivRkDqIy2Ie_EEqeAeGt1nlYV4551zXTnPLeaM9hPKb2vSi37wFN5CZJfSsXure6VZ20H3Bhwl-IkDtCOMw0-AaYrnlR2PCSBGSzIffe/s320/Waistband.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sewing tips:<br />
When sewing with a napped fabric such as corduroy:<br />
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1. Make sure you place the pattern pieces all in one direction so that the pieces all look the same. If you do not, it will seem like the pieces on the finished garment are different colors because the light will hit the nap differently.<br />
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2. Cut the pieces on a single layer of the fabric, particularly if the nap is prominent. Don't forget to turn the pattern pieces over so you don't end up with 2 right sides for example.<br />
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3. For pressing, I used a leftover piece of the same fabric so that I wouldn't flatten the nap.<br />
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4. I used a walking foot to prevent the fabric from shifting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz_MbCvD6HLdnWu6YlW8I-YzwL62PaN9Ojh2p8rRatg9zkKFZCeGRrS8ZSbNRpWkVffTR4bgOxPdC3yFRxE5uiqF_ey73H2XCn8_0qJc7JcVAFtj2JafQSSZeP2L0x7aAChTy3pGdS5XTE/s1600/Ginger_Jeans_Envelope_PROOF-02_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="321" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz_MbCvD6HLdnWu6YlW8I-YzwL62PaN9Ojh2p8rRatg9zkKFZCeGRrS8ZSbNRpWkVffTR4bgOxPdC3yFRxE5uiqF_ey73H2XCn8_0qJc7JcVAFtj2JafQSSZeP2L0x7aAChTy3pGdS5XTE/s400/Ginger_Jeans_Envelope_PROOF-02_large.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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Until next time....Happy Sewing!<br />
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<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com38tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-38646583454600838122017-11-26T20:57:00.001-05:002017-11-26T20:57:29.224-05:00Shades of BlueFor those of you who celebrated Thanksgiving, I hope you had a wonderful joy-filled one with family, friends and lots of good food. <br />
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A couple of years ago, I took a Pattern-making for Knits class at FIT in NYC. One of the homework assignments was to draft a pattern for a slouchy knit top with dropped shoulders and a turtleneck. Back then, I made it in French terry and I love that top. I wear it frequently because it is so comfy and cozy. I decided to make it again in a different fabrication to wear for Thanksgiving. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigl15OLdSm150lvBQkdv5HxXmVBB5H7lQ1JT_twxnDbziOypbN2WvHQf4rU1RRCxPmujO5t7iRCSvQlDvJgFPStBzobd7OMYCQCXktKHRXirFe0aTteks42hwGuChy-gFV8CYocwwpvQFe/s1600/close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1345" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigl15OLdSm150lvBQkdv5HxXmVBB5H7lQ1JT_twxnDbziOypbN2WvHQf4rU1RRCxPmujO5t7iRCSvQlDvJgFPStBzobd7OMYCQCXktKHRXirFe0aTteks42hwGuChy-gFV8CYocwwpvQFe/s640/close+up.jpg" width="538" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">I am wearing my new top with my </span><a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2017/03/ginger-skinny-jeans-wearable-muslin.html" style="text-align: start;"><span style="color: blue;">Closet Case Ginger Skinny jeans</span></a><span style="text-align: start;"> which I wrote about it a previous post:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTZGOEghwTLfEUZ1DHgjG3dWpiE7s-fHFinCjQihnoTr7g2Z-nfkqkfEqp3IWtum1GfruYesE2nGR2Ec5P_2XiEkuX9-Avth5yY1KYGEL2-vz02lMGPHxoi-6Wmcx_q43mQQazjRsR__vR/s1600/Fulll+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="868" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTZGOEghwTLfEUZ1DHgjG3dWpiE7s-fHFinCjQihnoTr7g2Z-nfkqkfEqp3IWtum1GfruYesE2nGR2Ec5P_2XiEkuX9-Avth5yY1KYGEL2-vz02lMGPHxoi-6Wmcx_q43mQQazjRsR__vR/s640/Fulll+view.jpg" width="346" /></a></div>
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The top came together rather quickly. I am a slow sewer and I was able to put it together in an afternoon. That is rare for me. I always find some way of making a fast project slow-going but since I had already worked with this pattern, the fitting issues had been worked out.</div>
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Here you can see the silhouette:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPkgnldSiRANXLVRGUe4y3guSXo0R5K5gpfeHhwOeE0FN-ALmKpmd-H5mr3sNrERpvoSQUdbKy5kx1GJxHtRndJ7eQfIucNGPZARTXXdOycQjE3SA6kKSWpiD0X6GtubV5WiCThsxheWgC/s1600/Silhouette.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1071" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPkgnldSiRANXLVRGUe4y3guSXo0R5K5gpfeHhwOeE0FN-ALmKpmd-H5mr3sNrERpvoSQUdbKy5kx1GJxHtRndJ7eQfIucNGPZARTXXdOycQjE3SA6kKSWpiD0X6GtubV5WiCThsxheWgC/s640/Silhouette.jpg" width="427" /></a></div>
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Here is a view of the back. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDwySZg62iQlou8n5MpUWt8b8rfRu0JmD8D4vBorMhG7OSFshm-Q7CN9kk1YB7X7xKel3GLLBfEqrtbdxmrzUoJX-cPkJuhcqyp7IWw3hNx9JKF0l1n1f3jzVWnUaFgyG4MBLQF_83fTqK/s1600/Back+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="920" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDwySZg62iQlou8n5MpUWt8b8rfRu0JmD8D4vBorMhG7OSFshm-Q7CN9kk1YB7X7xKel3GLLBfEqrtbdxmrzUoJX-cPkJuhcqyp7IWw3hNx9JKF0l1n1f3jzVWnUaFgyG4MBLQF_83fTqK/s640/Back+up.jpg" width="368" /></a></div>
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I purchased the fabric at B&J Fabrics in NYC. It is a rayon poly blend with a textured surface. The interesting thing about the fabric, which I did not notice at the store, is that it is actually two knit fabrics woven together. I realized this at home when I cut the fabric and noticed the cut edge. Interesting, right?!:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMJJVubNSmnXkCTSC8vGP7ooE2qDuKVf6jx_BUkBYtc6I8Ozdva-7zU8lcu8J6d6IlQL-DGRc1lYo7s400qE5iQigVPrhKy_WTrwZnOOQcGpruc_8eL_IhiHqzb1WeqEZyjEMvgouYbJQ/s1600/Fabric+edge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMJJVubNSmnXkCTSC8vGP7ooE2qDuKVf6jx_BUkBYtc6I8Ozdva-7zU8lcu8J6d6IlQL-DGRc1lYo7s400qE5iQigVPrhKy_WTrwZnOOQcGpruc_8eL_IhiHqzb1WeqEZyjEMvgouYbJQ/s400/Fabric+edge.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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I made sure to stabilize the shoulder seam with stay tape to prevent stretching. For knit tops, I often use the coverstitch for the hem but in this case, I wanted a more formal look to the top so I serged the raw edge and topstitched it using a walking foot (to prevent stretching). You can see the texture of the fabric in this photo:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHKZvmQbIkD87pB7GTRIFGSwzmAmWox45A6-wJA55dvG57Qh0msTLhByHri6UHtt1gVZyReUXsQTy17txTY_8dGq8yR80h28y8jKsBsEWymus75bOWYtmznHLmQnycSI3nTRFx9mChOxEL/s1600/hem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHKZvmQbIkD87pB7GTRIFGSwzmAmWox45A6-wJA55dvG57Qh0msTLhByHri6UHtt1gVZyReUXsQTy17txTY_8dGq8yR80h28y8jKsBsEWymus75bOWYtmznHLmQnycSI3nTRFx9mChOxEL/s320/hem.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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If you would like to make a top with a silhouette similar to mine but don't want to draft the pattern, you can try Kwik Sew 4190 or Cutting Line Designs Fun with Fabrics pattern (the top). </div>
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Happy Sewing!</div>
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Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-29177227547112497382017-10-29T16:55:00.000-04:002017-10-29T16:55:06.012-04:00It Ain't Over til It's OverWith the onset of the fall season, garment makers in the Northern Hemisphere have turned to making cardigans, jackets and clothing appropriate for cooler weather. I, however, have just finished making this little white summer linen blouse. I purchased the fabric at Gray Lines Linen in NYC (on 39th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues) back in June. The idea of this blouse has been in my head for months and I intended to make it to wear for summer but oh well, I just couldn't get to it. Add to that the fact that we have thus far had a warm fall here in the northeastern U.S. so I still wasn't in the mood for working with warm fabrics. Summer just hasn't felt like it's been over! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqJCqsEgPGNDGwsbHxLdTveBXyeIFrCJiFztZ6ptC-mOLU587m_S0ymk2CxjVGYuEI3K7LVw-HBlHfPoCeVYpSMLdSUk00JW0QGllhYO_p0x_yfw5yW7YDMSk8x0BROQuySrW7zjpSaCgS/s1600/Full+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1014" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqJCqsEgPGNDGwsbHxLdTveBXyeIFrCJiFztZ6ptC-mOLU587m_S0ymk2CxjVGYuEI3K7LVw-HBlHfPoCeVYpSMLdSUk00JW0QGllhYO_p0x_yfw5yW7YDMSk8x0BROQuySrW7zjpSaCgS/s640/Full+view.jpg" width="404" /></a></div>
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The pattern is self-drafted. It is another simple shape, a basic bodice, to which I drafted a little collar to add some interest. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHJruvmVm0Xfi3o4ZThHmZAPL-Zi2RR-FB_netQ0dTdWAoRMMDbE97BU29P0L2A4LYdGn6vhcUYOzfYhChEc6eIe9fIYyFIwaFkDOYqZF93QHYPffLdLz4_sHPs_7EC2SVuIpSgUWG2ZV/s1600/Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1511" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHJruvmVm0Xfi3o4ZThHmZAPL-Zi2RR-FB_netQ0dTdWAoRMMDbE97BU29P0L2A4LYdGn6vhcUYOzfYhChEc6eIe9fIYyFIwaFkDOYqZF93QHYPffLdLz4_sHPs_7EC2SVuIpSgUWG2ZV/s640/Front.jpg" width="604" /></a></div>
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Since I find the raw edge of linen scratchy against my skin, I decided to sew flat fell seams for the side seams. For the armholes, I created bias tape from the same linen fabric. White fabric tends to show the insides and I just didn't want a large dart take-up to show through to the outside so I trimmed the dart and finished the edges of the dart with a blanket stitch by hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKHXFXdEkci9GulaeITBm4UDNKLNn7PI2MgVFXn-x2ZQKj2E0znPm0Gjma03X-NXBlnvoL0IWSAk8Il9KSExeb-7rtTJoPiwmzAtQQHemLyyLcNWlwG8-TGMt4jZw0v4pM6IycUvdBrmhD/s1600/inside+finish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKHXFXdEkci9GulaeITBm4UDNKLNn7PI2MgVFXn-x2ZQKj2E0znPm0Gjma03X-NXBlnvoL0IWSAk8Il9KSExeb-7rtTJoPiwmzAtQQHemLyyLcNWlwG8-TGMt4jZw0v4pM6IycUvdBrmhD/s400/inside+finish.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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I also decided to make the facings part of the design so I turned them to the outside and topstitched them. The facing width is 1 inch plus 1/4 inch seam allowances.<br />
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It is amazing how hanging on the hanger, the neckline looks like it would be so much lower but on the body it is not. I will be making this blouse again but next time, I will lower the V-neckline further to make it look more like what you see on the hanger.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMYhyuqb10sr9NR1KSUspzrIS6nFc3HkYkK3zIrea-A-q2fR3YWSVt5ABArPnGOXHg9C035RPEu6AdhyXA8tMoIejXBgvjYvwBRewQvHGyzUeav8GW8HxT6-0Kkqn87DyAdhTrqjkpnWcU/s1600/neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMYhyuqb10sr9NR1KSUspzrIS6nFc3HkYkK3zIrea-A-q2fR3YWSVt5ABArPnGOXHg9C035RPEu6AdhyXA8tMoIejXBgvjYvwBRewQvHGyzUeav8GW8HxT6-0Kkqn87DyAdhTrqjkpnWcU/s400/neckline.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Speaking of the neckline, the V-shape creates a bias edge that is prone to stretching while handling. To prevent this from happening, I fused straight grain fusible tape along the edge as soon as I removed the garment sections from the pattern. I did likewise with the armholes and the shoulder seams. </div>
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With my next version, I will also bring the back darts closer to each other. They look a little too far apart to me.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzGILlnRyISUhLWIWT7kSuWrgMY_NooY8x-WdDvuRLK1trT5idCA_vNU6zaJGGU-u7Ca9RY_qIyR09sOJ9mvXjvdshEwLZH2tC3q0HNt4E3MaCQRWveiFeRraoAI0_Qo-2yKtmokckyVph/s1600/Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1007" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzGILlnRyISUhLWIWT7kSuWrgMY_NooY8x-WdDvuRLK1trT5idCA_vNU6zaJGGU-u7Ca9RY_qIyR09sOJ9mvXjvdshEwLZH2tC3q0HNt4E3MaCQRWveiFeRraoAI0_Qo-2yKtmokckyVph/s400/Back.jpg" width="251" /></a></div>
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I am rather pleased with how the collar turned out. It stands up as it curves around the neckline which you can see here:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmGrEA77MnSSBktWYQM-bZkkQHEz3dLESnS38vm4wNHpN9SVChg5nx1ICF_Jb8ssKaX35uWTSP7u2zBFSPS9pkgWgpMgcw4kY2ffDv6QWtbScJM6uiyFYXp1OyyHDDKC3fRcmsq2z0yfH2/s1600/collar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmGrEA77MnSSBktWYQM-bZkkQHEz3dLESnS38vm4wNHpN9SVChg5nx1ICF_Jb8ssKaX35uWTSP7u2zBFSPS9pkgWgpMgcw4kY2ffDv6QWtbScJM6uiyFYXp1OyyHDDKC3fRcmsq2z0yfH2/s400/collar.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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If you would like to try your hand at drafting this collar, let me tell you it is the easiest collar ever to draft. It was all straight lines and then I rounded the corners. Measure from the center back to whatever point you decide you want it to end. In my case it was 11 inches. Then decide how wide you want it to be. In my case, it is 1 inch. As for the corners, I rounded them using a French curve but you can free hand the shape or use the edge of a can. I added 1/4 inch seam allowances for the collar and neckline.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKUSg7TUAPAGXLM8PGFiZ5oTl1EeiK_GvEYJshLsUHzupuKBgHFSk1A3us-nhVXPlztpvsqMy2uJrxjKd1JRTo0H3zHT7zbQpfa7hyphenhyphen37FRIzsC60nHJtJ-nBb7Veg9-938iFNJeOKXpm0y/s1600/Collar+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="328" data-original-width="1600" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKUSg7TUAPAGXLM8PGFiZ5oTl1EeiK_GvEYJshLsUHzupuKBgHFSk1A3us-nhVXPlztpvsqMy2uJrxjKd1JRTo0H3zHT7zbQpfa7hyphenhyphen37FRIzsC60nHJtJ-nBb7Veg9-938iFNJeOKXpm0y/s640/Collar+pattern.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I find that using a small seam allowance does away with the need to trim. With white clothes especially, you want a straight clean edge. I find I can cut a straight edge when I am cutting out with the pattern but no so much when trimming. I used lightweight fusible weft interfacing for the collar.<br />
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To attach the collar, make sure the center back of the garment neckline edge and the center back of the collar align. Then sandwich the collar in between the garment and the facing, pin and sew.<br />
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Happy Sewing!<br />
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<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-59676463015444426122017-10-08T20:21:00.000-04:002017-10-08T22:14:16.998-04:00Joining Instagram - For a Good CauseKyle from <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2017/03/navel-gazing-about-blogging-or-not.html"><span style="color: blue;">Vacuuming the Lawn</span></a> has so generously donated her time and energy helping out those in need in her own special way. She created a beautiful tote bag and held an auction on Instagram to help those in Texas who suffered the wrath of Hurricane Harvey. I did not participate in the auction but did contribute via my church. It was heartening to see that my local community center collected supplies from my neighborhood. My employer also sent out a mass email providing links to organizations that were providing assistance. It was heartening to see everyone coming together to help those in need.<br />
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Kyle did it again for Puerto Rico. She took the time to make this beautiful floral bag and held an auction on Instagram to raise money to help our fellow U.S. citizens. With Puerto Rico, my church did not hold a fundraiser. My local community center did not collect supplies. My employer did not send out a mass email. One can speculate as to why (I don't want to get into it here) but my heart sank as I made these observations. I am of Puerto Rican descent so this disaster has had a personal element for me.</div>
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I have for the longest time resisted joining Instagram. I felt like it would provide me with another avenue to spend the little spare time I have. I would rather sew! But when Kyle held this auction, I just had to participate. I joined Instagram (my link: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sewmuchfashion/"><span style="color: blue;">Instagram</span></a>) just so I could participate in this auction and I placed the winning bid! See the Instagram auction feed by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BZ2UMOJhxu4/?taken-by=vacuumingthelawn"><span style="color: blue;">clicking here.</span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowHyrFvBivC7Iary86xM44ztOSQfEz0NzLp1_uP2Jcwbe7n1rU7zyXQa9I3tYHMQpE47JISXoskxg8VW_DJ1oSHXk358ViVabaRLeHlxWIc0CoEAv4ttwUAyiH7cID1QziRq4RP4bfYN-/s1600/Winning+bag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowHyrFvBivC7Iary86xM44ztOSQfEz0NzLp1_uP2Jcwbe7n1rU7zyXQa9I3tYHMQpE47JISXoskxg8VW_DJ1oSHXk358ViVabaRLeHlxWIc0CoEAv4ttwUAyiH7cID1QziRq4RP4bfYN-/s640/Winning+bag.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This bag is of high quality professional workmanship and came beautifully wrapped with a fun card.</td></tr>
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Thanks to the generosity of others in the sewing community, a total of $580 will be donated to the Hispanic Federation which is working tirelessly to help the residents of Puerto Rico. One poster matched my bid while two others contributed as well. So what this tells me is that there are so many different ways to help those in need. And there are so many good people out there!</div>
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Sometimes it seems like the world is unraveling...with one disaster coming right after another. It sometimes feels overwhelming and I often feel so helpless. But what those in the sewing community have shown is that we can all chip in in our own special way. Every little bit helps! </div>
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If you wish to contribute, you can do so via the following organizations:</div>
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<a href="https://hispanicfederation.org/unidos/"><span style="color: blue;">Hispanic Federation: UNIDOS</span></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.unicefusa.org/donate/support-unicef-usas-hurricane-relief-efforts-puerto-rico/32952?utm_campaign=2017_misc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_content=maria&ms=cpc_dig_2017_misc_0178/2/_Google_maria&initialms=cpc_dig_2017_misc_0178/2/_Google_maria&utm_term=%2Bun%20%2Bpuerto%20rico"><span style="color: blue;">Unicef - Hurricane Relief Effort for Puerto Rico</span></a></div>
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In addition to Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands and other islands in the Caribbean also suffered extensive damage and the citizens of Texas and Florida still need our help:</div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.redcross.org/donate/disaster-relief?scode=RSG00000E017&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Disaster%7CBrand&utm_term=%2Bred%20%2Bcross%20%2Bhurricane%20%2Brelief&utm_content=Hurricane%20Generic&gclid=CInMjfKb4tYCFf2bswodjRkCpQ&gclsrc=ds&dclid=COP4lfKb4tYCFca7swod0BgB_A">Red Cross - Hurricanes Harvey, Irma and Maria</a> </span> </span></div>
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Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-12047905743718365322017-09-09T20:54:00.000-04:002017-09-09T20:55:30.275-04:00I'll Wear it Next YearSeveral weeks ago, I finished a little floral summer skirt made from a medium weight cotton/linen fabric purchased online from Michael Levine. I purchased the fabric 2 years ago and it has since been sold out. <br />
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I love the "denimy" blue background color. The roses remind me of my mother who loved all flowers but especially roses. The motif also reminds me of a couch I once had - ha ha! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9FLV3C_MvNsXqIeXi3U6M_5Y_sXlgorXxiyvZ1hioi1tHCGvWdmpv3X7JuC7-YwHT7FCBadwBGzzcp8Ls6eBnekbK9WQowrAAW9INWftwiWG6cnS9EGRrMlBfaMO67hyphenhyphenJ5Xf2rzhAUOjc/s1600/Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="961" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9FLV3C_MvNsXqIeXi3U6M_5Y_sXlgorXxiyvZ1hioi1tHCGvWdmpv3X7JuC7-YwHT7FCBadwBGzzcp8Ls6eBnekbK9WQowrAAW9INWftwiWG6cnS9EGRrMlBfaMO67hyphenhyphenJ5Xf2rzhAUOjc/s640/Front.jpg" width="384" /></a></div>
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The skirt is self-drafted but you can find a similar pattern from one of the big pattern companies or independent pattern companies. I am wearing it with a self-drafted knit top I made some time ago. I would like to make a little woven top to go with it. Maybe in a navy blue or perhaps I will pick up one of the colors from the print. Anyway, I don't know when I will get around to making a top for it. It has been so cool here in the Northeast U.S. It feels like fall weather came way too early. Unless we get a few hot days, I will wear the skirt next year.<br />
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Following is a close-up of the skirt. The waistband seam sits at my natural waist. The waistband width is 1 1/2 inches. I was debating whether to make the skirt with chunky wooden buttons from my stash but after consultation with my daughter and with Kyle from <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/">Vacuuming the Lawn</a>, I decided to go with the blue buttons. I matched the motif along the center front fold:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rtGstKikGT6k0FjKG_yWkEODZGheOHs8Ma_xqU6c7EdpHZG3fYh7qf0OTHLiMCQQKlWW10E8bKQ3jYVGI2RimSl2nk7k4OQADtZq80VtC28tOqAkwFlIrPFScyW7dA1h1V7-dPnKrqAV/s1600/Front+on+form.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rtGstKikGT6k0FjKG_yWkEODZGheOHs8Ma_xqU6c7EdpHZG3fYh7qf0OTHLiMCQQKlWW10E8bKQ3jYVGI2RimSl2nk7k4OQADtZq80VtC28tOqAkwFlIrPFScyW7dA1h1V7-dPnKrqAV/s640/Front+on+form.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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But I did not have enough fabric to match the sides which I am ok with. Below are views of the side and back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLm46kTDKGgySwEFQ_6TfC4keU_zVZQ-L64crR991n6LmfEtBRNpAzZDy0dzb_0Mj7degQduJX0FUKRjpT2Uwt17c_wmz9gx1mMndgRtj7X0zbGn_2HTnQ-REcUe_R6TaqZcpSjtLBdla0/s1600/Side+and+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLm46kTDKGgySwEFQ_6TfC4keU_zVZQ-L64crR991n6LmfEtBRNpAzZDy0dzb_0Mj7degQduJX0FUKRjpT2Uwt17c_wmz9gx1mMndgRtj7X0zbGn_2HTnQ-REcUe_R6TaqZcpSjtLBdla0/s400/Side+and+back.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Instead of folding the waistband under and slipstitching, I decided to finish the raw edge with a Hong Kong finish. The inside side of the waistband is flat instead of folded under...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YtI7Iyf_6B-yVNKxoLSa_t18S2a7MaoggbmyDYbcXP5IrVlLF992BwT2IKtHKlJZ9bUDKkIX-nigktz277jRJz1hWTKg_g1CYiBBRCwbB3wxTkhulCz8QMdDbqcI97eWITtAnPKnX-SP/s1600/Inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YtI7Iyf_6B-yVNKxoLSa_t18S2a7MaoggbmyDYbcXP5IrVlLF992BwT2IKtHKlJZ9bUDKkIX-nigktz277jRJz1hWTKg_g1CYiBBRCwbB3wxTkhulCz8QMdDbqcI97eWITtAnPKnX-SP/s640/Inside.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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so I could stitch in the ditch from the right side. I find this method reduces bulk and creates a polished treatment.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3bOdq8AWIP10lHhhnyHnahHIo5ZlVvM5WWcyiXUomieDiLiZszBOvTBkJcbdCrV8MkoNvBqRW9CHLV8oM0ZBzB4TRPymiwVs4ipa0kU4Oh_93Ei-97IbaGbpAPQLN_Cv2uX15zq2j2Wz-/s1600/Stitch+in+the+ditch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3bOdq8AWIP10lHhhnyHnahHIo5ZlVvM5WWcyiXUomieDiLiZszBOvTBkJcbdCrV8MkoNvBqRW9CHLV8oM0ZBzB4TRPymiwVs4ipa0kU4Oh_93Ei-97IbaGbpAPQLN_Cv2uX15zq2j2Wz-/s320/Stitch+in+the+ditch.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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What do you think of the buttonholes? Beautiful, yes indeed!! I got them done at Jonathan's Embroidery, 256 W. 38th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues. You mark the buttonhole placement on the fabric and tell them what type of buttonhole you want. You bring a button with you and a sample of the fabric so they can make a test buttonhole for you before they proceed with your garment. They use industrial machines that create beautiful buttonholes. They also use gimp to prevent the buttonhole from stretching over time. The machines punch a hole (in the case of the keyhole buttonhole) and create a little slit. You then finish opening the rest of the buttonhole at home. They charged me $1 per buttonhole.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkm3iHi_t3F9XSRKDiR_namDDeirid7AF1VBIj3WL-IjWciRMHS9F2wUAiDRyYaZ1ey5F9QGfwFoxrSgvMGs93YkFNRbru-5t-hbrpuBhCgbbUMr5xih_d7SN7mN_9uacFYimBmM2CdRmw/s1600/Buttonholes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkm3iHi_t3F9XSRKDiR_namDDeirid7AF1VBIj3WL-IjWciRMHS9F2wUAiDRyYaZ1ey5F9QGfwFoxrSgvMGs93YkFNRbru-5t-hbrpuBhCgbbUMr5xih_d7SN7mN_9uacFYimBmM2CdRmw/s320/Buttonholes.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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If you ever have the opportunity to get buttonholes done professionally, do it because it is definitely worth the effort. <br />
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Happy sewing!<br />
<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-18824446041594425152017-08-19T17:29:00.001-04:002017-08-19T21:07:16.847-04:00A Simple Knit TopHonestly, I can't believe how fast time flies! We have about 4 to 5 weeks left of summer weather here in the Northeastern U.S. before it starts cooling down. I decided to make a simple knit T-shirt type of top which I can wear for the rest of the summer. I almost did not blog about this top. There really isn't very much to say about it. The fabric is a medium weight cotton jersey from Mood Fabrics.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHQPwVBIRaDWeSSyHEI4aTWGD-Rlk6wwdzwquM_MPW93rc5l0Tzc6AMWxdQkGHjIxlzhzrXjqu561OTlvlldlpMom3ynP1c7EzdZWpPYD4H75hDyX7Z_bzPfl5R_Yk2tEXNZNN4UhKaiw3/s1600/Full+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1148" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHQPwVBIRaDWeSSyHEI4aTWGD-Rlk6wwdzwquM_MPW93rc5l0Tzc6AMWxdQkGHjIxlzhzrXjqu561OTlvlldlpMom3ynP1c7EzdZWpPYD4H75hDyX7Z_bzPfl5R_Yk2tEXNZNN4UhKaiw3/s640/Full+view.jpg" width="458" /></a></div>
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Due to my very busty figure, I usually make my tops a little long. I find longer tops more flattering on me since a longer length creates a longer rectangle shape versus a boxy square.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2vzdHvYbk2ZlzZ6krMfysnqZ96E6VaAV0JxgAJ4ixnPPpMFy-lO-hTcGNRotkCEMmFgg6b5LyDVMdUej1Y7UbzyEJeA1-mRava2H0QKtTywVQryziHOJQ8SO4WnOwAv3XZDcYIGi8B-LA/s1600/Full+View+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1134" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2vzdHvYbk2ZlzZ6krMfysnqZ96E6VaAV0JxgAJ4ixnPPpMFy-lO-hTcGNRotkCEMmFgg6b5LyDVMdUej1Y7UbzyEJeA1-mRava2H0QKtTywVQryziHOJQ8SO4WnOwAv3XZDcYIGi8B-LA/s640/Full+View+2.jpg" width="452" /></a></div>
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The neckband is created from the same fabric using a technique I learned at FIT and described in a <span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2015/05/raglan-t-shirt.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous post</span></a>.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispDOkdXmha2K8rUbSM9ICKG9zT_qVsAXKrkK01zICKmqZ78nqESBiXSbfwlJQyPymm7j0IgNE3J3PtVKPSTA5jNOb4YLpHCjuvKPsCqvfP8bDBIwru8uyAORID1cjRyylBJ1xtFINXRZh/s1600/Close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispDOkdXmha2K8rUbSM9ICKG9zT_qVsAXKrkK01zICKmqZ78nqESBiXSbfwlJQyPymm7j0IgNE3J3PtVKPSTA5jNOb4YLpHCjuvKPsCqvfP8bDBIwru8uyAORID1cjRyylBJ1xtFINXRZh/s640/Close+up.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">For my figure, I need darts even in knits. I made sure to match the stripes at the side seams all the way up to the dart. I created the dart using the technique described in a <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2015/07/sewing-darts-in-knits.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous post</span></a>. The stripes get distorted above the dart but that is OK with me since my arm is down most of the time.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgatuq1RmO9OX1LBGl67OT8YShmJrOcarIZ0sBbqD2qaqyHsoln-Weblu04vNGw1dcWqKf6udkv6evgMn3hhKYP8rvncDGeSihi2g4TDoaqmZSxrxN7iS8i8_4HVtaASQi9BLxI2nJhG84h/s1600/Side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgatuq1RmO9OX1LBGl67OT8YShmJrOcarIZ0sBbqD2qaqyHsoln-Weblu04vNGw1dcWqKf6udkv6evgMn3hhKYP8rvncDGeSihi2g4TDoaqmZSxrxN7iS8i8_4HVtaASQi9BLxI2nJhG84h/s400/Side.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Here is the back view. Like I said, it is just a simple little top. The pattern is self drafted. If you want to make a similar top from a pattern, since it is so basic, you can find a similar silhouette by searching one of the major pattern companies or the independent pattern companies.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ8a2YyDdQv4JgHG0KsQPpcr19qzlr5WFmfdbKSfFyn4TrhlBhAhzde-cI1nnsHpLqBbfhyphenhyphenYRtqqLnwEimyl7sssUDRCA4M5qsMTp-Ae1UOjhSglpXLNZd5RBfczfoLLuS26XYDcG54ZdR/s1600/Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="973" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ8a2YyDdQv4JgHG0KsQPpcr19qzlr5WFmfdbKSfFyn4TrhlBhAhzde-cI1nnsHpLqBbfhyphenhyphenYRtqqLnwEimyl7sssUDRCA4M5qsMTp-Ae1UOjhSglpXLNZd5RBfczfoLLuS26XYDcG54ZdR/s400/Back.jpg" width="242" /></a></div>
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I hope you are enjoying the summer (for those of us in the Northern Hemisphere). I will be savoring the rest of it.<br />
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Because I don't want to part with a photo of my back, here is a beautiful photo taken from a hike I went to in Northern New Jersey:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWsT-daBy7Vyvq7mThtNetTlIW07kClKQelUcaMr0fQ4EUDMuKK7Shnt9lnrnjqvT21R4cn6goJeT1Ah4-5HvNcG2ZC482DtaNFT9FrzC8oiR6kS1yQydIBUnzGyq8k3KoQZ6mxzjI0jK/s1600/Franklin+Lakes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWsT-daBy7Vyvq7mThtNetTlIW07kClKQelUcaMr0fQ4EUDMuKK7Shnt9lnrnjqvT21R4cn6goJeT1Ah4-5HvNcG2ZC482DtaNFT9FrzC8oiR6kS1yQydIBUnzGyq8k3KoQZ6mxzjI0jK/s400/Franklin+Lakes.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Franklin Lakes Nature Preserve, Franklin Lakes, NJ</td></tr>
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Happy Sewing!</div>
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<span style="background-color: #bd081c; background-position: 3px 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; background-size: 14px 14px; border-bottom-left-radius: 2px; border-bottom-right-radius: 2px; border-top-left-radius: 2px; border-top-right-radius: 2px; border: none; color: white; cursor: pointer; display: none; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold; left: 113px; line-height: 20px; opacity: 1; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; position: absolute; text-align: center; text-indent: 20px; top: 3428px; width: auto; z-index: 8675309;">Save</span><span style="background-color: #bd081c; background-position: 3px 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; background-size: 14px 14px; border-bottom-left-radius: 2px; border-bottom-right-radius: 2px; border-top-left-radius: 2px; border-top-right-radius: 2px; border: none; color: white; cursor: pointer; display: none; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold; left: 113px; line-height: 20px; opacity: 1; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; position: absolute; text-align: center; text-indent: 20px; top: 3428px; width: auto; z-index: 8675309;">Save</span><span style="background-color: #bd081c; background-position: 3px 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; background-size: 14px 14px; border-bottom-left-radius: 2px; border-bottom-right-radius: 2px; border-top-left-radius: 2px; border-top-right-radius: 2px; border: none; color: white; cursor: pointer; display: none; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold; left: 113px; line-height: 20px; opacity: 1; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; position: absolute; text-align: center; text-indent: 20px; top: 3428px; width: auto; z-index: 8675309;">Save</span><span style="background-color: #bd081c; background-position: 3px 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; background-size: 14px 14px; border-bottom-left-radius: 2px; border-bottom-right-radius: 2px; border-top-left-radius: 2px; border-top-right-radius: 2px; border: none; color: white; cursor: pointer; display: none; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold; left: 113px; line-height: 20px; opacity: 1; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; position: absolute; text-align: center; text-indent: 20px; top: 3428px; width: auto; z-index: 8675309;">Save</span>Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-15251996823051253452017-07-23T14:38:00.002-04:002017-07-23T14:38:57.717-04:00Hot Colors, Cool Dress and Lots of WorkSince summer is in full swing, I have been very much in the mood to sew with linen despite its tendency to wrinkle. I find that if you wash linen in a washing machine and dry it on a hot setting, the linen still wrinkles but it does so softly so that is what I did.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFXxj3ER9SAC6cPheYLbyrl0zGMtYxHs-mLAvo4zhTWoVW2Y5q-h_dZS_wjZ-PMJABGOVhhHqnLy_EMQ2tarJhdYr7fb5SLUvFO6VtBaMYV7iMNAhmeucllfI_dl3rXB2goeOAMo2BO9m/s1600/front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="997" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFXxj3ER9SAC6cPheYLbyrl0zGMtYxHs-mLAvo4zhTWoVW2Y5q-h_dZS_wjZ-PMJABGOVhhHqnLy_EMQ2tarJhdYr7fb5SLUvFO6VtBaMYV7iMNAhmeucllfI_dl3rXB2goeOAMo2BO9m/s640/front.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
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McCall's 7562 was the inspiration for this dress. I love the colors chosen for the sketch of View B. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgONtJ0WOJ4jHWVVgk4rKBvX6_qwsvI2D9ijuP7dtblt4LxnamYv25dOAQWHCY01ljwI0kg3EQ-LyBbHC3LwQ3si1hIkcOqJgbTCeop0G51-vM9NYSFkh1VCjCneaj72ErqlrEnbsgkF6/s1600/7562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1164" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgONtJ0WOJ4jHWVVgk4rKBvX6_qwsvI2D9ijuP7dtblt4LxnamYv25dOAQWHCY01ljwI0kg3EQ-LyBbHC3LwQ3si1hIkcOqJgbTCeop0G51-vM9NYSFkh1VCjCneaj72ErqlrEnbsgkF6/s320/7562.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>
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However, I did not want the neckline and sleeves illustrated. I also wanted the top orange section to be longer so that the style line did not cut me in half so to speak. <br />
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I recently received a fashion book as a gift that had pictures of shift dresses from the 1960's. I was a toddler then but still remember my mother sewing shift dresses for me and my sister. Nostalgia set in so I decided to make a 1960's inspired shift dress. I drafted the top section and bottom section of the dress but I used the pockets from McCall's 7562. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtONvvgGyPpqMBCKQHDW_BUKjYzYb4_3MLhAK_quyis_Tm8PVIrzjGujP66RJzZFtQ_394XZmP4EzWTqB0FR3R_qB4U8A7er_EH5WCz5kD_99D8FNO1-0iNwKVwINtwKCNx5ZvU9zgDv_/s1600/pockets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="882" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtONvvgGyPpqMBCKQHDW_BUKjYzYb4_3MLhAK_quyis_Tm8PVIrzjGujP66RJzZFtQ_394XZmP4EzWTqB0FR3R_qB4U8A7er_EH5WCz5kD_99D8FNO1-0iNwKVwINtwKCNx5ZvU9zgDv_/s640/pockets.jpg" width="352" /></a></div>
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I thought this dress would be one of those easy-to-make summer dresses...oh so carefree...comfortable and perfect for a hot summer day!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFL5jWsygF_kauguxzbNHecJXTP4R7Y9YSjTd0dI9PvE-P3l_9xRew-hzg_Dg-81TzwLf1O3ie_q_aL03wKTdq07KsLwCJRnISOcjf1YBEkG-_whTPmkdPhkKMvctyjUcBqH_HtJeVR3NK/s1600/happy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1279" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFL5jWsygF_kauguxzbNHecJXTP4R7Y9YSjTd0dI9PvE-P3l_9xRew-hzg_Dg-81TzwLf1O3ie_q_aL03wKTdq07KsLwCJRnISOcjf1YBEkG-_whTPmkdPhkKMvctyjUcBqH_HtJeVR3NK/s640/happy.jpg" width="510" /></a></div>
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While the finished garment is certainly very comfortable and perfect for a hot day, it actually was a lot of work to put together. Following is the saga...<br />
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For me, the raw edge of linen feels scratchy to my skin. I have tried in the past finishing linen edges with a serger but it still feels scratchy. I therefore decided to finish the edges using a Hong Kong finish. It resulted in a beautiful finish in the inside but it did take some time to cut the bias strips (out of Bemberg lining fabric) and apply them. Since the linen is lightweight, I also thought it would be a good idea to line the red bottom section to make sure there was no see-through. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiThFhhvFgZ7aMeAOEhXhkUgkcfIwKobzRTRoIcV3pqTwjoqyiwNx_jhWUN5Wu1_76mWuvZfRrsyqBYEvvFZOfHfx5Y9dhnX1l_U1srTMRYfr9222udiW3Us-QFpPuyoaBt1LMuTqJcc-TY/s1600/inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiThFhhvFgZ7aMeAOEhXhkUgkcfIwKobzRTRoIcV3pqTwjoqyiwNx_jhWUN5Wu1_76mWuvZfRrsyqBYEvvFZOfHfx5Y9dhnX1l_U1srTMRYfr9222udiW3Us-QFpPuyoaBt1LMuTqJcc-TY/s400/inside.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Another issue I encountered was the bust darts. Since I am a bit top heavy, the dress required that I make a huge dart for it to hang correctly. However, no matter how carefully I sew a large bust dart, there is always a rather noticeable bubble that forms at the dart point. In an effort to minimize the bubble, I tried using a technique suggested by Virginie of the blog <a href="http://jazz-couture.blogspot.com/2017/03/the-20-dresses-project-number-2-le.html"><span style="color: blue;">Jazz Couture</span></a> where she recommended that you fuse interfacing to the end of the dart. I tried that but I still had a rather large bubble. I also read in a Sandra Betzina book (don't know which one) that sewing a small piece of fabric to the end of the dart would eliminate the bubble. I have tried that in the past as well and still got a large bubble. I am sure each technique would work on its own were my dart not so massive. So this time, I combined both techniques and had a much better result. Thank you Virginie and Sandra Betzina!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUlKGBgML5QSoODzjAaD1NiX44NDR4muifPz0xLTlNJmJ-68V1gHw1C8YpjwIM5AvAXkLP4xNn1ixwK3a3MI69BdW8PpV_xsVGtn_Hmm38pHWPZi-pAn6ElA0LkcrXci7XwaHRtIkiGsV/s1600/dart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUlKGBgML5QSoODzjAaD1NiX44NDR4muifPz0xLTlNJmJ-68V1gHw1C8YpjwIM5AvAXkLP4xNn1ixwK3a3MI69BdW8PpV_xsVGtn_Hmm38pHWPZi-pAn6ElA0LkcrXci7XwaHRtIkiGsV/s320/dart.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now yet another issue was the large dart take-up which you can see in the above photo. I did not want that large expanse of fabric to show on the right side so I trimmed the dart and finished the edges by hand with a blanket stitch. I thought that serging the dart would result with a ridge showing on the right side so that is why I chose to do a hand blanket stitch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilFgEBayVLWwOp8BzLfNnA4qIMmtetWLmQXwq_V3VTht0zWJbjhbnNuJCh3AwTkkx79OKz0qJosPLP_xRh32VxPV961BzMFSuVPdkurl_vb7zhSwT0HSZd2J0iE6WJCp0MSDDOA8kwBHlx/s1600/trimmed+dart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1504" data-original-width="1600" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilFgEBayVLWwOp8BzLfNnA4qIMmtetWLmQXwq_V3VTht0zWJbjhbnNuJCh3AwTkkx79OKz0qJosPLP_xRh32VxPV961BzMFSuVPdkurl_vb7zhSwT0HSZd2J0iE6WJCp0MSDDOA8kwBHlx/s400/trimmed+dart.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is the right side of the dart freshly pressed. In the wearing of the garment, I have noticed that the bubble has come back but it is small, not the huge bubble I had before combining the two techniques.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOoVDkfKkWPCt4SFhiy0RWj_cZKyr3-DLJB_qhrMLvlc-pCGKyS_du7EklMJOK5jd8oT9iy9ytvcnpvQH_chAOaRsDu-n1giJJfvkEtdHeLnmU5cayZbhIGB0fvF6bFMN2EdeGP_LzV-S/s1600/outside+of+dart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOoVDkfKkWPCt4SFhiy0RWj_cZKyr3-DLJB_qhrMLvlc-pCGKyS_du7EklMJOK5jd8oT9iy9ytvcnpvQH_chAOaRsDu-n1giJJfvkEtdHeLnmU5cayZbhIGB0fvF6bFMN2EdeGP_LzV-S/s320/outside+of+dart.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I noticed once I had the main pieces put together and the pockets sewn in, that the pockets flopped open. Ugh! What I did was fuse a piece of woven fusible stay tape along the pocket edge (the side that is facing outside). That worked like a charm - whew! So if any of you want to make View B of McCall's 7562, do stabilize the pocket edge along the top. Since I wanted to make sure the tape would stay put in the washing machine, I decided to secure it with a catch stitch. You can see I pinked the edges of the pockets...again, I did not want ridges to show through on the right side.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO1ajZsD44CD-60OBLcoVfYpe2YwUyWPJUbWJd5EY144lWG7m3NWWbZKOiaaoLeXsZEeTONRqhENHZq7ov00hhLp76vVXrb19JEmTmDogrwDDfdomb1ms07iFVHd_SOMS6naDCdg24YK4o/s1600/pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO1ajZsD44CD-60OBLcoVfYpe2YwUyWPJUbWJd5EY144lWG7m3NWWbZKOiaaoLeXsZEeTONRqhENHZq7ov00hhLp76vVXrb19JEmTmDogrwDDfdomb1ms07iFVHd_SOMS6naDCdg24YK4o/s320/pocket.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I did make a muslin of the dress to make sure the fit was just what I wanted. Everything was A OK in the muslin. I went ahead and cut out the garment and stay stitched the armholes. I was going to use purchased pre-packaged bias tape turned to the inside because I like the clean finish it provides. I used this technique on the neckline of my <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2017/06/a-fun-dress-mccalls-7562.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous dress</span></a>. So I applied the bias tape, turned it to the inside and topstitched. I tried the dress on and was horrified to discover that I had inadvertently stretched out the armholes. You could see most of my bra! Oh no! What to do?<br />
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FIXING THE STRETCHED ARMHOLES:<br />
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I was brainstorming with my dear sewing friend, Caryn. (She makes the most beautiful garments. She does couture level sewing. She is so very talented and an inspiration to me). She suggested using fold over elastic in red since it would pull in the armhole and add interest with the red color. I thought it was a great idea except I was pretty sure I would not find the correct red. Instead, I decided to pull in the armhole with basting stitches and make my own bias tape from some of the left over red fabric. I proceeded to remove all of the bias tape I had applied, an arduous task indeed.<br />
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I fixed the stretched out armholes by sewing a running stitch by hand along the armhole edges. You can faintly see the basting stitches in the below photos. I then pulled the thread which created ripples (photo on the left). I then steamed and pressed it to flatten the ripples as much as possible (photo on the right):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg96SMxVxG1L4ZAPkgper2nZhLz3XQ6x9-mZxwQ0SkIa9lc3ejPSWorNCXD-nCZmxTB5sEG9boxaX5Od4xSCQ1MiLqlw2Q-_dZKwPaANHgNAvhW9GvmtUdZt-NCAvV_CzpiMCrNkdpeQh_R/s1600/ripples.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg96SMxVxG1L4ZAPkgper2nZhLz3XQ6x9-mZxwQ0SkIa9lc3ejPSWorNCXD-nCZmxTB5sEG9boxaX5Od4xSCQ1MiLqlw2Q-_dZKwPaANHgNAvhW9GvmtUdZt-NCAvV_CzpiMCrNkdpeQh_R/s320/ripples.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then I applied the red bias tape to cover the ripples:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis7LNe7kmU-x0tsttQkaQGlGqEYNDYUHHVig27dKIcjE4ZSNmaqaUbp6vaz5xmEBEZ-Kr2N_XFy0jQXQTfXkqa3qr0zWWDt0dMJaEnAx2lWq_nHmC3QO2NfhGVek7VpagDfKS5SuU2ejDI/s1600/trim+fix.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis7LNe7kmU-x0tsttQkaQGlGqEYNDYUHHVig27dKIcjE4ZSNmaqaUbp6vaz5xmEBEZ-Kr2N_XFy0jQXQTfXkqa3qr0zWWDt0dMJaEnAx2lWq_nHmC3QO2NfhGVek7VpagDfKS5SuU2ejDI/s320/trim+fix.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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WooHoo! I do love the effect of the contrast trim along the armholes (thank you Caryn!) so I applied it to the neckline as well. I think that without the red trim, it would feel like something was missing. It was one of those happy accidents!! <br />
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Here are the back and side views of the dress. I used an invisible zipper at center back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7A9mWko3kNpO_1FP1bsOZ2XyjHBmDnj38ReApJJNdWR6Ems4R6VYybZbQUcbhvg_2Kuwid1rUC96BOtWQ_O1_qI_KiuKbILz2vQoocriuCMWEe0LGyokPCR30TvJIAWsNaqOKFMx6hkwB/s1600/Back+and+Side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7A9mWko3kNpO_1FP1bsOZ2XyjHBmDnj38ReApJJNdWR6Ems4R6VYybZbQUcbhvg_2Kuwid1rUC96BOtWQ_O1_qI_KiuKbILz2vQoocriuCMWEe0LGyokPCR30TvJIAWsNaqOKFMx6hkwB/s320/Back+and+Side.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A shift dress is not the most flattering view from the side (thus the face) but overall, this dress is a great dress in vibrant colors that is cool and comfortable. Its simple silhouette belies how much work it was to put together, but it was worth it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv8g3ZQJNK9B0NsfI93EelhthIp-KCcjXvAFERJ-9hyphenhyphen-H3-pGQUWWTAR7XF6-z4cT7jO_uthnKn4hvaV7vWdzAnRtvr-PVEQXEmNqln-eVNXZUJ-FpE8Yn24mX1QxVb7RMPMN4zfnFAyAr/s1600/peace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1212" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv8g3ZQJNK9B0NsfI93EelhthIp-KCcjXvAFERJ-9hyphenhyphen-H3-pGQUWWTAR7XF6-z4cT7jO_uthnKn4hvaV7vWdzAnRtvr-PVEQXEmNqln-eVNXZUJ-FpE8Yn24mX1QxVb7RMPMN4zfnFAyAr/s640/peace.jpg" width="484" /></a></div>
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Until next time, peace, love and happy sewing!<br />
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<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com34tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-4923481918223831932017-06-18T21:29:00.001-04:002017-06-20T21:29:26.460-04:00A Fun Dress: McCall's 7562After seeing how wonderful McCall's 7562 turned out on <a href="https://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com/2017/03/finished-mccalls-7562.html">Dressmaking Debacles</a>, I decided I would give it a try. It is not a silhouette I would normally choose for myself. It is a very loose fitting dress with a split kimono type sleeve which means there is a lot of fabric under the arms by the bust area, an area that I do not want to emphasize. <br />
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When I made the muslin, it looked like a hospital gown to me. It was so huge and long! I picked a Medium based on my measurements but I eventually took in 4 inches total from the sides which put me into a Small. I also shortened it by 6 inches! (I am short but I normally shorten by 3 inches.) Muslins are usually very unattractive garments so I did not let the hospital gown look dissuade me. I had purchased this beautiful fabric at NY Elegant in NYC (40th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues). I love the print and colors. It is a drapey rayon which I felt would be perfect for this dress. <br />
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Despite my misgivings about the silhouette for my figure, I do not regret going outside my comfort zone - something I need to do more often. It is a very comfortable dress, perfect for those hot humid days. I do love the split sleeves with ties. I also love that it has inseam pockets - yay! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmwX5Hko9Rhj5Y6vEu-EhpY2Qq4G-3vXYbBcXHjRDtbjyPLfFpOTokTrvHiFsDaxSBtA0lh1VZ3AITvwfu8vnoOgKK-H7xrQCDguNwxNo5UMkHIXAUZMFMd1pqm71faQasdR6234tJCShb/s1600/pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmwX5Hko9Rhj5Y6vEu-EhpY2Qq4G-3vXYbBcXHjRDtbjyPLfFpOTokTrvHiFsDaxSBtA0lh1VZ3AITvwfu8vnoOgKK-H7xrQCDguNwxNo5UMkHIXAUZMFMd1pqm71faQasdR6234tJCShb/s640/pocket.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I think the shirt tail hem adds another element of fun and interest to this dress. I hemmed it to knee level at the front:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxBkirUSMQOeZdXru6OiHPG0yJxtxcn8r9Dt95W4XhpBJ3xsc_gxhY6mIIzF6WwSK-RM9pNeH0FtWWXMYXkHfSSeA9lfAqNsCtT7XL1KrEUPAPmL_3UmCmlYTCd9qpTi6TO1X5eYHPqM-x/s1600/front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="996" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxBkirUSMQOeZdXru6OiHPG0yJxtxcn8r9Dt95W4XhpBJ3xsc_gxhY6mIIzF6WwSK-RM9pNeH0FtWWXMYXkHfSSeA9lfAqNsCtT7XL1KrEUPAPmL_3UmCmlYTCd9qpTi6TO1X5eYHPqM-x/s640/front.jpg" width="396" /></a></div>
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But the higher shaped sides add a little pizzazz to it:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIkP2lX_ke9Bc75MgobxXAa3zQDBr_2HnwwMwfnyH4rxaTJ8i0uTshzVqkghQ-fkkytjCCFNafMaTIgaNt3g38SzvxyXfyQNBfRcVOKfFlJs41TTHaw2LO1oV6PgTJmTrfsszIo9x5twSm/s1600/front+shirt+tail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="986" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIkP2lX_ke9Bc75MgobxXAa3zQDBr_2HnwwMwfnyH4rxaTJ8i0uTshzVqkghQ-fkkytjCCFNafMaTIgaNt3g38SzvxyXfyQNBfRcVOKfFlJs41TTHaw2LO1oV6PgTJmTrfsszIo9x5twSm/s640/front+shirt+tail.jpg" width="393" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI8M8tXGG3QdKmTkGjMtN6QfpUvC8FiD3RczoN1BiKrQLEDbJwhIrAUu3g6Uw-eV52CJwAS6PU4WoN160KDt7f0f1XnWQ8crRbhsGY2Ldycx9w2m69e93wTf8QR-Uf_4yoZYcofX4lIaPD/s1600/Side+full+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="888" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI8M8tXGG3QdKmTkGjMtN6QfpUvC8FiD3RczoN1BiKrQLEDbJwhIrAUu3g6Uw-eV52CJwAS6PU4WoN160KDt7f0f1XnWQ8crRbhsGY2Ldycx9w2m69e93wTf8QR-Uf_4yoZYcofX4lIaPD/s640/Side+full+view.jpg" width="355" /></a></div>
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As recommended by others who have made this pattern, I omitted the center front neckline placket. I also raised the neckline all around by 1 7/8 inches. </div>
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What do you think of my beautiful necklace? It was lovingly hand made by my very dear sewing friend, Vivian, who gave it to me as a gift some time ago. She is one talented lady! Her eye for what beads go with other beads is unbelievable. It is the perfect necklace for this dress. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQOkljBDFZHRX-0uX4LnblAptWcmt85fGPjkadWGc7wDqy_zgGTWA4UN3ub2K40saPhTkD7AKq6glPpOIW0_Q4WmaILlbVVrRwGDKcylGqC0umOtpZ42F4ZcwmzpbsTAtOpEuRLlAZ-KG/s1600/Necklace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="955" data-original-width="1600" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQOkljBDFZHRX-0uX4LnblAptWcmt85fGPjkadWGc7wDqy_zgGTWA4UN3ub2K40saPhTkD7AKq6glPpOIW0_Q4WmaILlbVVrRwGDKcylGqC0umOtpZ42F4ZcwmzpbsTAtOpEuRLlAZ-KG/s640/Necklace.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the very loose fitting design of this dress:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDLtYsFoBdPye7qomzaSaVuIiNZ5o5asaVKuaNhiZnFXoBo38oDBdcfbhjh4E2ylMRYl7maiFSH6zTpFpvIqgG1s_DGrWkvSDabKG2HcYVeyQMvFKGb6Cc4u35Pd-ITcq7DAfU_cKpAH9U/s1600/silhouette.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDLtYsFoBdPye7qomzaSaVuIiNZ5o5asaVKuaNhiZnFXoBo38oDBdcfbhjh4E2ylMRYl7maiFSH6zTpFpvIqgG1s_DGrWkvSDabKG2HcYVeyQMvFKGb6Cc4u35Pd-ITcq7DAfU_cKpAH9U/s400/silhouette.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The pattern includes a neck binding piece that you attach and slipstitch but I decided to use bias tape. It is the prepackaged single fold bias tape you can find at JoAnn's. I like the clean finish of it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEissUrjB5eMChKulR6ReUB-hFosuTBx-8GZl_dotje5DeIFjGSnQtpAOGKmbToiP5llKnEroVv7fPP-erSARP07Ac_QDARXcgFWdfFKR3fpygW4K344mMRnnbmm_aTNqCUZd-U_XKdv4axX/s1600/bias+tape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEissUrjB5eMChKulR6ReUB-hFosuTBx-8GZl_dotje5DeIFjGSnQtpAOGKmbToiP5llKnEroVv7fPP-erSARP07Ac_QDARXcgFWdfFKR3fpygW4K344mMRnnbmm_aTNqCUZd-U_XKdv4axX/s400/bias+tape.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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On my figure, even though the dress was loose fitting, I found I still needed to do a full bust adjustment to make it hang properly. The full bust adjustment also reduced some of the extra fabric under the sleeve since I had to add a dart. You can find instructions on how to make this alteration in the book by Palmer Pletsch, <i>Fit for Real People</i>. The full bust adjustment always has the effect of lowering the dart too much for me so I must either redraw the dart to point to the correct spot or I must raise the whole dart. In this case, I redrew the dart since there was no room to raise it any further due to the kimono type sleeve. Since I butchered the pattern so much, I traced the altered pattern onto fresh paper. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrb6j7yg0TOmnh8WgyGOPOTjur5Wqrw4C987DFOAQlcfB35UshObkwhRLErMoOp4aDZcVqeMEEVD-buism85GZXVLDwkjSVlELvanpCuesQaZjBBBsUr2l7C7qbIHVr26rqsZgZz1ezpED/s1600/FBA.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrb6j7yg0TOmnh8WgyGOPOTjur5Wqrw4C987DFOAQlcfB35UshObkwhRLErMoOp4aDZcVqeMEEVD-buism85GZXVLDwkjSVlELvanpCuesQaZjBBBsUr2l7C7qbIHVr26rqsZgZz1ezpED/s640/FBA.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I love this dress and look forward to wearing it often during the hot humid days of summer!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwxpssTGFWVaPCP4vYwInBR1cmW9HW4BdMBh0m_S6Gs8xn_zkmVyxFro8eBYew37VphEm1AYEews3nkQbfGYDDtEu0sW_REAXwN7-dlBQR1xlzRpvxGmzBy1H53b0C0s_rOEgqfl-7W7W/s1600/side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwxpssTGFWVaPCP4vYwInBR1cmW9HW4BdMBh0m_S6Gs8xn_zkmVyxFro8eBYew37VphEm1AYEews3nkQbfGYDDtEu0sW_REAXwN7-dlBQR1xlzRpvxGmzBy1H53b0C0s_rOEgqfl-7W7W/s400/side.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Happy Sewing!Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-11908997524547883592017-05-07T20:04:00.001-04:002017-06-20T21:47:40.338-04:00Fun with Sleeves: M7542McCall's is running an online contest where contestants are challenged to create pattern <a href="https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/product-search?ref=7542"><span style="color: blue;">M7542</span></a>. It is a simple basic bodice with several different versions of sleeves. In some circles, I have read that it is the "Year of the Sleeve." I thought it would be fun to participate so I made Version D with the flounced sleeve.<br />
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I used a striped blue and white cotton shirting fabric. I decided to add my own little twist by lining the flounce in a solid blue cotton poplin. I also added piping above the flounce in the same solid blue color. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's M7542, Version D</td></tr>
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It's been some time since I have made a woven top (I usually prefer knit tops) and I do need more tops in my wardrobe so this contest was just what I needed to get me working on another top. The pattern's bodice has a boxy shape which I normally avoid but I do like how this top turned out. </div>
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In case anyone is interested in lining the flounce, following are the steps:</div>
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First, for each sleeve I cut the flounce in each fabric of course:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihTqD3qjSjTMNDDLoqoEWOy50YRFMNvWBKJDfJqQ99kEaAkr3MD29LbMB8lGYyB47EKP86zUHKGBCyGBAE2uitk6KDrA1cv8kxoPVXb5wQpysrnjw8ruMX4fr8LJ-2gT6IiLWsccbxhCRu/s1600/flounce+fabric+and+lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihTqD3qjSjTMNDDLoqoEWOy50YRFMNvWBKJDfJqQ99kEaAkr3MD29LbMB8lGYyB47EKP86zUHKGBCyGBAE2uitk6KDrA1cv8kxoPVXb5wQpysrnjw8ruMX4fr8LJ-2gT6IiLWsccbxhCRu/s320/flounce+fabric+and+lining.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I hand basted them right sides together and machine stitched with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. I hand basted because I wanted to make sure the pieces did not shift as I handled them. Using the 1/4 seam allowance meant I did not need to trim the seam allowance and it would make it easier for me to press the seam open.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqfgHzTjakevRQwywFIVfpykMqR4C3nVHVLDGlyrk75Waxe2aLp-XdFJX-OYUPA14CABNi3tULxU4TVhuvMXKqTJpBCIrFgCg5UPL-2Z5N1NO9I09d45-CfWGazJy8TPID-a_1CblFLJG/s1600/basted+together.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqfgHzTjakevRQwywFIVfpykMqR4C3nVHVLDGlyrk75Waxe2aLp-XdFJX-OYUPA14CABNi3tULxU4TVhuvMXKqTJpBCIrFgCg5UPL-2Z5N1NO9I09d45-CfWGazJy8TPID-a_1CblFLJG/s400/basted+together.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The trickiest part was pressing the seam open. I pulled the circles apart at the small center opening and inserted my Dritz seam roll. I placed the seam over the end of the seam roll and pressed with a steam iron 2 inches at a time. I did not worry about wrinkling the rest of the flounce. I could always press out any wrinkles later. For this important step, what mattered was making sure the seam was pressed open.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpjWXPTLCQm1Oe32Zjg1kgwg0unVneUeixqGQMb56pm2k5B_qiOnHRH3BNhfF4L_xdJ6uBjgcdU1Z6_1kNyWvfTlAd_J8-zdXCjvY7MPsRYIF8qbE_bqqitm3tgulrVgB-gOcNUGRFlfz/s1600/press+open+seam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpjWXPTLCQm1Oe32Zjg1kgwg0unVneUeixqGQMb56pm2k5B_qiOnHRH3BNhfF4L_xdJ6uBjgcdU1Z6_1kNyWvfTlAd_J8-zdXCjvY7MPsRYIF8qbE_bqqitm3tgulrVgB-gOcNUGRFlfz/s400/press+open+seam.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once all of the seam allowance was pressed open, I turned it inside out from the center opening. I pressed the edge flat making sure that the edge did not favor one or the other side of the fabric. </div>
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I basted the center opening closed and continued with constructing the sleeve treating the flounce as one. Once the flounce was attached to the sleeve, I pondered how to best finish the inside. I could serge it but I did not want the serged edge to show when I lifted my arm or should the wind blow. My solution was to cut a bias strip and bind the raw edge.</div>
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For the back closure, the pattern's instructions tells you to use a hook and eye. However, I thought using a button and thread chain would create a more polished look. I used a light blue button I found in my stash but I may change that in the future.<br />
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The cotton shirting has a very tight weave which made it difficult to ease the sleeves. There is one sleeve I am not completely happy with so I will unstitch and re-attach that one (the left one). I did not have time to finesse the sleeve because the deadline to enter the contest was today, May 7, and I needed to finish in enough time to have photos taken before my photographer had to leave. I may make this pattern again with one of the other sleeves. Perhaps I will make it in another cotton shirting or a fabric with a looser weave. I may also add waist darts for more shaping but I will do so only if I use a solid color fabric or a busy all over print. The options are endless and that's what so great about sewing!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTurnF3kupIxa8F9yljZ5hhDrycO5LEu6rsbLguM70828Mdj9I0RKtmbFZrkuBeyuAvnUq-QVb6G8qsz7No_2WOz09eOy_IRNM8gIbx2hQD8SqO9hKxXVjRZ-HDBXsNy8msN-1QWg380Ej/s1600/7542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTurnF3kupIxa8F9yljZ5hhDrycO5LEu6rsbLguM70828Mdj9I0RKtmbFZrkuBeyuAvnUq-QVb6G8qsz7No_2WOz09eOy_IRNM8gIbx2hQD8SqO9hKxXVjRZ-HDBXsNy8msN-1QWg380Ej/s400/7542.jpg" width="290" /></a></div>
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Happy Sewing!</div>
<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com38tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-18994208028689306342017-04-25T21:41:00.003-04:002017-04-25T21:41:41.878-04:00A Close CallFaye from Faye's Sewing Adventures is currently having a <a href="http://fayessewingadventure.blogspot.com/2017/04/day-11-tops-that-pop-sew-long.html"><span style="color: blue;">Tops That Pop sew along</span></a>. I decided to participate so I made the below red and navy striped top. The fabric is a cotton jersey purchased from Mood. The fabric is medium weight and has stretch but not very much stretch. I was originally inspired by the top made by Lori from <a href="http://www.girlsinthegarden.net/2017/03/mccalls-6964-rednavy-stripe-knit.html"><span style="color: blue;">Girls in the Garden</span></a>. It is just so cute on her!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTY2KZaTrnQLIAg9v7j1Bl9BZQuQPEfdZWAsLGFVfyHXJB4KI6zz4Yq-BhWcnqMFMjVgOAnpduTakV6huwtF4GK98NIpomPlk6BzLVWNC0ZVL2lwcBEmsnQgOU-zYY6UK1vE1EddSUXgB0/s1600/front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTY2KZaTrnQLIAg9v7j1Bl9BZQuQPEfdZWAsLGFVfyHXJB4KI6zz4Yq-BhWcnqMFMjVgOAnpduTakV6huwtF4GK98NIpomPlk6BzLVWNC0ZVL2lwcBEmsnQgOU-zYY6UK1vE1EddSUXgB0/s640/front.jpg" width="406" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Self-drafted knit top with Ginger Skinny Jeans</td></tr>
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I originally made a simple fitted T-shirt top but when I put it on, I discovered that I cut the armholes in too deep (think narrow shoulder adjustment gone wild). This resulted in the sleeve being too tight along the sleep cap and there was pulling across my upper chest since the sleeves were pulling out at that area. The top was uncomfortable. (This is a self-drafted pattern. I made a mistake - oops!)<br />
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As I was considering whether to declare it a wadder, I realized that I could save the top by making it a cold shoulder top. The armhole was just right for that type of top. So I unstitched the sleeve cap of the sleeves and folded it down. I basted down the sleeve cap and then topstitched from the front along one of the navy stripes. I then cut away the excess. For the sleeve hem, I wanted as much sleeve as possible so I folded it up by only 1/4 inch and topstitched from the right side. This alteration alleviated the pulling across the sleeve and upper chest and now this top was suddenly a fun on trend top. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwGF78dBp9rQ2U8_dQVexOT8hCBnV9EawW6k-tW78NLnf-SKYnYhZrrYWHvoJg2ypmjhIwUTostEAs6TfDIzhuBmatemcTEoVFSgtjRc6q9NGfm0TOEsFo5S-WykXymTkfl6Hfvl4zT9TW/s1600/sleeve+cap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwGF78dBp9rQ2U8_dQVexOT8hCBnV9EawW6k-tW78NLnf-SKYnYhZrrYWHvoJg2ypmjhIwUTostEAs6TfDIzhuBmatemcTEoVFSgtjRc6q9NGfm0TOEsFo5S-WykXymTkfl6Hfvl4zT9TW/s320/sleeve+cap.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Jersey fabric curls to the wrong side and that is what the fabric was doing along the exposed armhole edge. To prevent this from happening, I fused a strip of fusible tape along the armhole edge. I did not want to make the armhole go in any deeper by turning it under so instead, I used a decorative stitch along the edge to further stabilize the armhole and also help keep the tape in place should it ever loosen in the wash.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgshZyrcaV5uXRMi2lb6Rj_76TmOGMqQgCPVF1QnGFFZI3wyNCeOgOmL0m2cm3mMUlaZxOoyUbapRL2j_72JyMY2U-S2Wvqbw07oY56-6WUFhE-k2yg7Zi0x41xY4dSwRUxCC2dhQKWTjU4/s1600/armhole+finish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgshZyrcaV5uXRMi2lb6Rj_76TmOGMqQgCPVF1QnGFFZI3wyNCeOgOmL0m2cm3mMUlaZxOoyUbapRL2j_72JyMY2U-S2Wvqbw07oY56-6WUFhE-k2yg7Zi0x41xY4dSwRUxCC2dhQKWTjU4/s400/armhole+finish.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used a strip of the same fabric for the neck finish and I attached it using the technique described in a <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2015/05/raglan-t-shirt.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous post</span></a>. For my figure, I always need to sew darts even for knits so I used the method described in a previous post, <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2015/07/sewing-darts-in-knits.html"><span style="color: blue;">Sewing Darts in Knits</span></a>. I used a ball point needle and a stitch length close to 3.0. I serged the side seams and neck band.<br />
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This top was not the look I originally wanted but I am nevertheless happy with how it turned out. Sometimes mistakes bring about the best results!<br />
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Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-64349153663527200882017-03-25T20:42:00.001-04:002017-03-25T20:42:41.871-04:00Ginger Skinny Jeans: A Wearable MuslinWell, I am happy to say that I have had a great experience with the Ginger Skinny Jeans pattern by <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/ginger-skinny-jeans-pattern"><span style="color: blue;">C</span><span style="color: blue;">loset Case Patterns</span></a> The muslin discussed in my <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2017/03/ginger-skinny-jeans-muslin.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous post</span></a> has resulted in a wearable muslin. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL3W0hdzPbrxKVKwMn0Jp6HHMGQfsId_UjWMDTtk5X9J4MTX01k_9GBgHAot9J8lt2rnHUZQTs-8B6vCykINKRZwOEJrnsTDdVwBcniJH7sJcScPf8DXB49cdsw-Rnjv7nnuEgihyB9hFD/s1600/Front+jeans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL3W0hdzPbrxKVKwMn0Jp6HHMGQfsId_UjWMDTtk5X9J4MTX01k_9GBgHAot9J8lt2rnHUZQTs-8B6vCykINKRZwOEJrnsTDdVwBcniJH7sJcScPf8DXB49cdsw-Rnjv7nnuEgihyB9hFD/s640/Front+jeans.jpg" width="370" /></a></div>
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The pattern is well-drafted and the details are true to ready-to-wear. Heather Lou, the designer and founder of Closet Case Patterns, most definitely did her research. Despite the fact that I mostly live in jeans, there are details in ready-to-wear jeans that I never even thought of until I started working with this pattern. Not all ready-to-wear jeans are exactly the same of course but when I pulled out my old Gap jeans, I noticed similarities with the Ginger jeans pattern. <br />
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One thing was the stitching at the top of the side seam that runs for about 6 inches or so. Another was how the back pockets curve on the sides of the pockets closest to the center back seam. Working with this pattern results in a ready-to-wear style of jeans but better because you make it to your liking and fit. <br />
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Below you can see the topstitching details and shaping of the back pockets:<br />
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Here are my old Gap jeans:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvWp7V29eEyIhNOG2q1NJWxjkMvjTWYqiFzmylVu735cy0Id94spfkFXkKO-xEDtERm2tcL4-PplC6M2gx7bAyD09_v4htLCicu73Pozhr6URouE_qZjpyeAp0Ue9zsQp-UeBF9-SJJlzQ/s1600/Gap+jeans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvWp7V29eEyIhNOG2q1NJWxjkMvjTWYqiFzmylVu735cy0Id94spfkFXkKO-xEDtERm2tcL4-PplC6M2gx7bAyD09_v4htLCicu73Pozhr6URouE_qZjpyeAp0Ue9zsQp-UeBF9-SJJlzQ/s640/Gap+jeans.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I knew I would be making adjustments to the pattern so I traced the leg patterns so as not to butcher the original pattern. For this muslin, I took in the side seams and inseams since I have very thin thighs:<br />
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I have also determined there are a few more adjustments I need to make on my next pair:<br />
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1. Take in the waistband just a little bit. The waistband is a little loose and I like waistbands to hug me just a little. <br />
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2. Make a large calf adjustment. Once I get up from sitting down, they get "stuck" on my calves and then I have to pull them down. I have the same problem with ready-to-wear but I won't have this problem with my next pair of jeans.<br />
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3. I have excess fabric below the derriere. There are a lot of suggestions out there as to how to remedy this. I will be researching and pondering how best to proceed.<br />
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I have a good quality medium weight denim I purchased at Mood a long time ago which I will use to make my next pair of jeans. But now I am in the mood for working with a different fabric...maybe stretch corduroy. It is still chilly here in the Northeast so if I get started on them soon, maybe I could wear them a couple of times. We'll see!<br />
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Happy sewing!Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com35tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-18108841171683058162017-03-14T20:12:00.001-04:002017-03-14T20:13:03.117-04:00Ginger Skinny Jeans: A MuslinThanks again everyone for your warmth and heartfelt good wishes! Well, I am finally sewing again. It felt so good to sit down and sew. I have been contemplating sewing a pair of denim jeans for quite some time. I have seen many positive reviews on Pattern Review.com and various blogs of the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/ginger-skinny-jeans-pattern"><span style="color: blue;">Ginger Skinny Jeans pattern</span></a> by Closet Case patterns so I decided to give it a try.<br />
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I started by making a muslin from an inexpensive denim I found in New York City in one of those little fabric stores on 38th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues. It was only $6 a yard. Boy is it a sturdy fabric! It is a little stiff so I pre-washed it 3 times in order to soften it and get all the shrinkage out of the fabric. This fabric did not fade at all and it is thick and still a little stiff. Since the bolt did not have the fabric content, I decided to do a burn test to see if I could figure out the fabric content. The fabric did not melt and left ash which tells me it has cotton but boy this fabric is indestructible! That's ok, though, especially for a muslin which would be stitched and unstitched and stitched again.<br />
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Speaking of unstitching, I have discovered this nifty little seam ripper by Dritz. I purchased it at JoAnn's. The rubber tip is amazing! The package says you use the rubber tip to help you grab the little pieces of threads left behind after you remove a seam but I found it is wonderful in helping you massage the little holes left by the needle and that is what I value most about it. <br />
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I used a size 100/16 Singer needle with a 3.0 stitch length and regular all purpose polyester thread for the main seams. For topstitching, I used the brown color jeans topstitching thread by Coats & Clark with a stitch length of 3.5. I used the jeans topstitching thread on the top and the regular polyester thread in the bobbin. I finished the seams with my serger. I pressed the seams with a steam iron.<br />
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For the back patch pockets, I simply freehanded a topstitching design on them. With muslins, I usually just put together the main pieces to test for fit but since so many have had a positive experience with this pattern, I took my chances and decided to cut and sew all of the pieces in the hope that I would have a wearable muslin in the end.<br />
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I decided to make the high waisted version which includes a stay for the tummy. I made the stay out of woven pre-shrunk non-stretch cotton muslin fabric. The pattern instructions have you interface the zipper section but I don't think that is necessary for the version with the tummy stay. The pattern has you attach the stay all the way to the edge of the fly so I believe it can double as interfacing. I think the stay plus the interfacing plus the fabric folded plus the zipper plus the zipper guard is just too much bulk for my taste. I will therefore eliminate the interfacing for the next version of this high waisted jean and rely on the stay for stabilizing the zipper area.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfiv_tzHPQ82bpWOAM7hgPPzBYmTnvkOhOijDc_6iyF785Ade4Rt0GT4aafhCxrpuUPXRzmT59OtYqQPlp-n-Hd8ZyzC-f69xVZxpDPNIRoIMWscmmrKpVCEtLESdtxxsDmX0lyGMhyojP/s1600/Stay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfiv_tzHPQ82bpWOAM7hgPPzBYmTnvkOhOijDc_6iyF785Ade4Rt0GT4aafhCxrpuUPXRzmT59OtYqQPlp-n-Hd8ZyzC-f69xVZxpDPNIRoIMWscmmrKpVCEtLESdtxxsDmX0lyGMhyojP/s400/Stay.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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For the front of the pant, after I was done inserting the zipper, I traced the topstitching pattern onto cardstock to use as a template. I simply placed the cardstock on top of the front aligning the straight edge to the center front and traced around the template so I had a guide for topstitching. I am going to use this handy little template for other pants I make in the future.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluVaVFdYLN-4q9mIdasWFgxA_KGjyks4CLirK3HmG6Wz4kNbhCkRMehxXgkRDCbl43Xmo1C8odxM0kpRu2tQl-kBWt86-snnQfWNy6Cp3uCvsh0OP_wrHIf7cfySxHuriLPGqm5ZgHHB1/s1600/Template.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluVaVFdYLN-4q9mIdasWFgxA_KGjyks4CLirK3HmG6Wz4kNbhCkRMehxXgkRDCbl43Xmo1C8odxM0kpRu2tQl-kBWt86-snnQfWNy6Cp3uCvsh0OP_wrHIf7cfySxHuriLPGqm5ZgHHB1/s400/Template.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Here is the front of the jean:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQJI0ooDgT1g1ZKb8Hob7vhIUhCaqVOE-1RUlGkp02ruhNdkNg5FokyLIZjUqqHEZ6P_cfs2djXQ6qX4HT0c7b0YKkF6GBgSX4Udar6Rn8jiha3zJGNne2PKoDBQBMuP8RoeDbV2B-df6/s1600/Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQJI0ooDgT1g1ZKb8Hob7vhIUhCaqVOE-1RUlGkp02ruhNdkNg5FokyLIZjUqqHEZ6P_cfs2djXQ6qX4HT0c7b0YKkF6GBgSX4Udar6Rn8jiha3zJGNne2PKoDBQBMuP8RoeDbV2B-df6/s320/Front.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is the back. I attached the front to the back and discovered, as usual, an excess of fabric below the derriere at the thigh area. I decided to take in the thigh area at both the side seams and inseams and it helped quite a lot. I am glad the fabric was so sturdy since I stitched and unstitched the seams several times until I was happy. I used a long machine basting stitch and once I was happy with the fit, I used the regular machine stitch of 3.0. I still have to attach the belt loops and sew up the hem:</div>
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I have large calves so the jeans are a little snug around that area, an issue I encounter with ready-to-wear jeans as well. I let out the seam at the calf area as much as I could. They are not tight so I can still wear them but I will definitely be making an adjustment for the next version.<br />
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So far, I have discovered this pattern to be well drafted with a good fit. The pattern instructions are excellent although I had to get used to the illustrations having the white side refer to the right side and the shaded side refer to the wrong side. (It is the reverse in the big pattern companies which is what I am used to.) It is important to use stretch denim as suggested by the pattern. Otherwise, the jeans will turn out too small.<br />
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I am pleased with how the muslin turned out. For my next post, I will model them so you can see the fit.<br />
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I encourage anyone contemplating making jeans to try this pattern. Just dive right in! If you feel a little unsure, use inexpensive fabric and have a seam ripper handy.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoOd_-L0m_k14Ur9DeDnvT8zi4MGVxrNwJCBwtiX4SM-2X6QOH1Lqi7VmK9jkpYRXEkcERTgtK61SQWQSJGbFvuC_D1_RogFuDSyIhuIcSv-4eMSW3Ngu1YkR0wMmsY8cQ79o9ALLf_5Bd/s1600/Ginger_Jeans_Envelope_PROOF-02_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoOd_-L0m_k14Ur9DeDnvT8zi4MGVxrNwJCBwtiX4SM-2X6QOH1Lqi7VmK9jkpYRXEkcERTgtK61SQWQSJGbFvuC_D1_RogFuDSyIhuIcSv-4eMSW3Ngu1YkR0wMmsY8cQ79o9ALLf_5Bd/s320/Ginger_Jeans_Envelope_PROOF-02_large.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginger Skinny Jeans pattern by Closet Case Patterns</td></tr>
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Happy sewing!</div>
<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-23719800378736581642017-03-01T22:05:00.002-05:002017-03-01T22:33:45.911-05:00Thank you!Thank you everyone for all of your encouragement and support. I appreciate all of your comments to my last post and all of the good wishes sent my way. It is much appreciated and helped very much.<br />
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I am finally back home! Yay! I thought I would share with you the final steps of this long journey and yes, that means this is my last house construction post. 😊<br />
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Below is my house as it is now, elevated and newly sided. On the left is the addition which now houses the utilities that were in the basement like the furnace, hot water heater, and washer/dryer. The greatest thing (besides being protected from floods of course) is that now the washer/dryer is on the same level as my living space which is a great convenience. It makes for a cute little laundry room. No more going up and down the stairs when I do laundry (and pre-wash fabric). The space below the house I can use for <strike>my fabric stash</strike> (ahem) storage.<br />
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Below is a photo of what the house looked like before. Quite different!</div>
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Of course, the first rooms I needed to get set up were the bedroom, kitchen and bathroom so many boxes ended up in my sewing room - aaak!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fH0ifCXiDL9OdZJNWfdnJb2ynNI-ywbto3K0DyvmmLyGF-P4qa7HvWf7UNjL299OdFk7uaOqc0riVKUKJ0kMZbnd5daVlqb0lzB_P9yDSQ1769-7NcdxTsge2GH5mMpqJfAATNdXOVlh/s1600/Sewing+room+before.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fH0ifCXiDL9OdZJNWfdnJb2ynNI-ywbto3K0DyvmmLyGF-P4qa7HvWf7UNjL299OdFk7uaOqc0riVKUKJ0kMZbnd5daVlqb0lzB_P9yDSQ1769-7NcdxTsge2GH5mMpqJfAATNdXOVlh/s400/Sewing+room+before.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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However, I am mostly done unpacking so here is my sewing room now. I still have to get rid of that ladder and a few boxes not visible in the photo but I am almost there:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKj_wgROf0Xpz1EdK4D0d3u_p5Rx1rp1zMaQ-FYRixgOUuvvNXvrScZY-zSXfF_gz3Ku79emiuhWo3eEYdphHmykupfNnVH-BfW73oPgvaA38UgfrRCtYXk-Z5rJpNmZYH3XmKuZv_leV/s1600/Sewing+room+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKj_wgROf0Xpz1EdK4D0d3u_p5Rx1rp1zMaQ-FYRixgOUuvvNXvrScZY-zSXfF_gz3Ku79emiuhWo3eEYdphHmykupfNnVH-BfW73oPgvaA38UgfrRCtYXk-Z5rJpNmZYH3XmKuZv_leV/s400/Sewing+room+after.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Here is one of my favorite sides of the sewing room. Hanging from the clock is a leather heart keychain which Kyle from <a href="https://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/">Vacuuming the Lawn</a> sent to me as a gift. In case you are wondering, that circular item is the handle to my steam mop which I have since put away:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0dnagz9QIg9WJiQepEUQAO_S2dFy2UCDlIf2QGZsjESpXe2NI83Oi4Kc04jNXiTqtsIW9edblJ5mz94JTPtNAkh0YS0wVhf8kpmTMjxATEseE1iWn50URqyEMNqTSdAkE3LDCtJZe3P2e/s1600/sewing+side+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0dnagz9QIg9WJiQepEUQAO_S2dFy2UCDlIf2QGZsjESpXe2NI83Oi4Kc04jNXiTqtsIW9edblJ5mz94JTPtNAkh0YS0wVhf8kpmTMjxATEseE1iWn50URqyEMNqTSdAkE3LDCtJZe3P2e/s320/sewing+side+after.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Besides all of the love, friendship and support from family, friends and all of you, I also had the company of Zoe, my furry friend, whose cuteness, sweetness and silliness always makes me smile:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipaYLwutMrC9UO70Lr9ZaBYgBh2TOqaesHNI8XcrAGwd3TG59UalsZwt6AEoq13wCafIOq8whA7qdxdjF_ZBsl6fVBu1coG9zAVcbSaYi5rNRJAHkS744DkyhhfxK24RIj73dFcJluU-Aa/s1600/Zoe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipaYLwutMrC9UO70Lr9ZaBYgBh2TOqaesHNI8XcrAGwd3TG59UalsZwt6AEoq13wCafIOq8whA7qdxdjF_ZBsl6fVBu1coG9zAVcbSaYi5rNRJAHkS744DkyhhfxK24RIj73dFcJluU-Aa/s400/Zoe.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Before I started packing for my move back home, I started working on making a pair of jeans so I hope to start working on them again soon.<br />
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Happy Sewing!Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-3754278920729269832017-01-22T22:51:00.000-05:002017-01-23T07:14:07.946-05:00Life is Stranger than FictionSome of you have been asking how my house is coming along. While I wanted my next post to be sewing related, alas, it is not obviously. I had a little bit of a setback. A few days after the project was completed and we received the Certificate of Occupancy (a document from the town saying that the house has been inspected and it is safe to live in), a pipe burst. Of course, we were not yet living in the house when this pipe burst so I believe it was spewing water for a day or two before my husband and I discovered it.<br />
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The weekend of December 18 got very very cold so the pipes froze. You prevent pipes from freezing by making sure the house is heated but what we didn't know is that the newly installed heating unit had a defective part so the heat never came on. So the pipes froze and upon thawing, a pipe burst.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the left, pipe burst from second floor. The water flowed from the second floor through my living space all the way down to the crawlspace beneath the house on the right</td></tr>
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This discovery was quite a traumatic experience. I remember my husband and I opening the front door and hearing what sounded like the Niagara Falls inside the house. The look of panic on my husband's face! I started shaking like a leaf. My husband ran downstairs and turned the water main off. The amount of damage was extensive. We had to get many walls torn down, dry the wood, and put new walls back up and paint.<br />
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I remember going back to my temporary home that day feeling numb. I believe I sat in the living room for about 1 1/2 hours just staring into space unable to speak or do anything. Looking back now, it is almost comical. We go through all this trouble to raise the house to prevent flooding, but the house floods anyway but from the inside. Go Figure! <br />
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Luckily, our contractor started working on repairs immediately. Fast forward...the damaged pipe has been repaired. The defective part in the heating unit has been replaced. We have heat in the house and the repairs have been completed. The repairs left an enormous amount of drywall dust all over so I have been spending the weekends cleaning. We have plans to move back to the house the end of January so I will be taking a few days off during the week to pack.<br />
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We will be back home soon - yay!<br />
<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-43181623845128521472017-01-18T22:15:00.001-05:002017-01-18T22:33:20.619-05:00What an Honor!Rhonda Buss, author of the blog, <a href="http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/"><span style="color: blue;">Rhonda's Creative Life</span></a>, has a weekly column called <i>The Wednesday Showcase</i> in which she features fellow sewing bloggers. I am so happy to say that Rhonda has featured me and my blog in her fabulous column. You can read it <a href="http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-wednesday-showcase_18.html"><span style="color: blue;">by clicking here</span>.</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyfegsTTYR4-TEBMYlCacP9v51JadqNuX-yd2hH7InN5K9LiCd-SkNZAL2plzLqonH0iygcVUzRoRck2h8kxoW5WW08tc-U1kN-ChTNrP1hytUGx-bt1wnIgDrlaVvqzcgzIK39XoLotGo/s1600/Rhonda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyfegsTTYR4-TEBMYlCacP9v51JadqNuX-yd2hH7InN5K9LiCd-SkNZAL2plzLqonH0iygcVUzRoRck2h8kxoW5WW08tc-U1kN-ChTNrP1hytUGx-bt1wnIgDrlaVvqzcgzIK39XoLotGo/s400/Rhonda.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Rhonda is a true professional. Check out her blog and you will see the impeccable workmanship of her garments. She writes for <i>Sew News</i> magazine and is currently pursuing the Master Sewing and Design Certification by the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals.<br />
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In addition to beautiful garments, she also shares many delicious recipes and inspirational quotes. It is a blog full of all sorts of eye candy and valuable information so do check it out!<br />
<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-22163598010908258452016-11-27T20:24:00.001-05:002017-01-02T16:08:54.644-05:00Sewing Plans and the HouseHello All! It's been quite a while since I have posted. I have been focused on the house plus I have had a spell of very long days at work. While I enjoy my temporary home, it has lengthened my commute quite a bit. Sometimes it takes me 2 hours one way! I get home rather late and quite tired so I have had little time for sewing.<br />
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Regardless, I do have sewing plans. Whether I can achieve them in the near future remains to be seen. I purchased this lovely cotton print knit at NY Elegant Fabrics. I like the autumnal colors as well as the "dusty" look it has. I really love how it looks against the charcoal grey corduroy I purchased at Mood Fabrics in NYC. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWPewKAJkfkjHmx4w4iGfxw6C29rh4HiKbp8JIFTItJm3n5R0N47ls51B3meah_7XKXmSwYdPw-9fQAwA9V6urHvBVT_dFu8GkupvFph_wQCQhp_LlyL4qlnplkKAzC6hIWRP5SunviPPM/s1600/Fabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWPewKAJkfkjHmx4w4iGfxw6C29rh4HiKbp8JIFTItJm3n5R0N47ls51B3meah_7XKXmSwYdPw-9fQAwA9V6urHvBVT_dFu8GkupvFph_wQCQhp_LlyL4qlnplkKAzC6hIWRP5SunviPPM/s400/Fabric.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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I have already sewn up the printed knit jersey into a long-sleeved crew neck top. Nothing fancy. The charcoal grey fabric is absolutely beautiful. It is a medium weight fine wale corduroy, very soft and it feels luxurious. I want to make a pair of jean style corduroy pants out of this fabric. However, I have decided to make a muslin first. I have a light grey medium weight corduroy in my stash that I am using as a muslin. If it comes out reasonably well (I hope), maybe it can be a wearable muslin.</div>
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Since I had a long 5 day weekend for Thanksgiving, I was able to draft the pant pattern and cut it out in the muslin fabric. Back to the routine tomorrow, though, so I don't know when I will pick this up again.</div>
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I have very little spare time during the week and the time I do have I spend reviewing and preparing paperwork and answering emails regarding the house. As I said in a <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2016/08/lift-off-we-have-lift-off.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous post</span></a>, I am the recipient of grant money from the State of NJ for homeowners who suffered property damage due to Hurricane Sandy. The grant covers part of the cost for elevating the house. Of course, it brings with it quite a lot of paperwork that needs to be reviewed and submitted within certain deadlines. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the left, papers filed. On the right, papers to be filed.</td></tr>
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The weekends I spend doing chores and running errands as well as visiting the job site and recording the week's progress. The contractor is close to finishing up. I am working with the power company so that the gas meters can be installed. There's still quite a few odds and ends but we are close to finishing....just in time for the holidays! So I foresee lots of cleaning up and packing while in the midst of Christmas shopping...so I don't know when I will get sewing again - bummer.</div>
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Regardless, for those of you celebrating the upcoming holidays, I wish you all a safe and happy holiday season.</div>
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Happy Sewing!</div>
Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-38288716051409200062016-09-25T21:56:00.001-04:002017-01-02T19:54:29.201-05:00An Interesting Print, Laziness and Fold Over ElasticRecently, I purchased a printed rayon knit fabric from Mood Fabrics in NYC on <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2016/08/mpb-day-2016-heat-humidity-hula-hoops.html"><span style="color: blue;">MPB day in August</span></a>. I was drawn to the fabric because of the colors and the print. The print looks like various photographic images of city scenes. After I purchased it, I didn't like it because it seemed dark and somber. Determined not to have wasted my money, I cut out and sewed this self-drafted top so now I like the fabric again. It's unique and it fits well. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxWPLDcAX6r4YrJ7eaje0GOis2BnNMv1Pr-m_GhJt7oVU8AqmGpUVEzFMoN39U331zY76hJdIWk8GmUwLyvQCeseKtcz0IfOyHWkzckfsNZ0QXU1d00e4R7xuHLoSzhU3w55n6S20Si-u1/s1600/Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxWPLDcAX6r4YrJ7eaje0GOis2BnNMv1Pr-m_GhJt7oVU8AqmGpUVEzFMoN39U331zY76hJdIWk8GmUwLyvQCeseKtcz0IfOyHWkzckfsNZ0QXU1d00e4R7xuHLoSzhU3w55n6S20Si-u1/s640/Front.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPi5Um9trqKupZIb8wG-PGUdHPD1Fy860xLUqWr7pkYUQWHKmNjZKAE_Pl1f1IiD2Js0Pv8ayWK6uswhXfhzH2YKvwZaWsLoqTJTqsMxPPat92RWjABzEl95408I_7MMLp_C-rhJSBaXTF/s1600/Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPi5Um9trqKupZIb8wG-PGUdHPD1Fy860xLUqWr7pkYUQWHKmNjZKAE_Pl1f1IiD2Js0Pv8ayWK6uswhXfhzH2YKvwZaWsLoqTJTqsMxPPat92RWjABzEl95408I_7MMLp_C-rhJSBaXTF/s640/Back.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This is a print requiring thought and planning as to where certain images would be placed. However, feelings of laziness set in, probably because I was not feeling too excited about the fabric at the time, and I was going to cut it on the double. Luckily, I had gotten together with a dear sewing friend who urged me to cut it single layer so I could plan where the images would go. It took less than 5 minutes to copy the pattern so that I had both the left and right sides in one pattern piece for the front. I am so glad she intervened! <br />
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Below is a closeup of the fabric:<br />
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You can see buildings, cobblestone streets, people walking along a sidewalk, rain falling. Could you imagine if I had the images of people walking across my sizable chest or a red blotch? Not good! Crisis averted.<br />
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Before working on this top, I had seen a blog post by <a href="http://www.annewhalley.com/blog/2016/9/3/you-dont-always-find-what-you-are-looking-for-butyou-always-find-something"><span style="color: blue;">Anne Whalley</span></a> about a beautiful dress she had made where she finished the neckline edge with fold over elastic. I loved it. I also had seen what a great job Kyle from <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2015/02/s9776-tank-jalie-3025-skirt-jalie-2796.html"><span style="color: blue;">Vacuuming the Lawn</span></a> had done with a lace tank and skirt set she made where she used fold over elastic to finish the tank's neckline and make the straps. I decided to give it a try.<br />
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Since this was my first time using fold over elastic, I relied heavily on my old stand by: hand basting. Below are the steps I followed. I am sure there are those of you out there who can apply this with no or very little basting (practice makes perfect) but this is what worked for me for now.<br />
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As you can see from the photo below, the fold over elastic has an indentation along the middle where you fold it. Once you fold it, one side is actually slightly larger than the other side. This is so you can place the larger side underneath the fashion fabric and the smaller side on top, so that when you topstitch it on top, the stitching catches the larger side underneath.<br />
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1. I placed the raw edge of the fabric on top of the larger side of the elastic with the raw edge meeting the indentation.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH57fEc00dKhJFfO1WbHiXMSVdyZ_a25HHwaE9EDp8KCB9h9BBJv34tuDD0K3fgR8DcIj8NpZz-OrDABqmugUbieHTORFx9TYBW8iJJtNofyQTTN3cAyPfW2VtDBS7M0SHafarg2J2sUq6/s1600/Raw+edge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH57fEc00dKhJFfO1WbHiXMSVdyZ_a25HHwaE9EDp8KCB9h9BBJv34tuDD0K3fgR8DcIj8NpZz-OrDABqmugUbieHTORFx9TYBW8iJJtNofyQTTN3cAyPfW2VtDBS7M0SHafarg2J2sUq6/s320/Raw+edge.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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2. I then hand basted it in place. I pulled the elastic just a bit as I was basting -- this is important so that the elastic will lay flat against your body. As I basted, I also made sure to feel and check with my fingers that the bottom side of the elastic did not shift and remained larger than the top. Below you can see the ripples caused by stretching the elastic which will not show when you put on the garment (as long as you didn't stretch too much).</div>
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3. I then folded the remaining elastic over to the right side and basted again.</div>
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4. I then topstitched it close to the edge on the right side and removed all of the basting. You can see below how the stitching caught the elastic at the bottom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicN8eRrXxh-ho9nVuONOyO0pb9hGp7ps49uHU_HXBN8t2ZJvmBFdlxxG3_4WqHX-DCtENWd7nHbtFYUlXJhuOajulbW_bHC9sVlOQts4UKqBFgQqSaX4ekjOUwd8M2B9KwA3tOwvX_eM2/s1600/Neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicN8eRrXxh-ho9nVuONOyO0pb9hGp7ps49uHU_HXBN8t2ZJvmBFdlxxG3_4WqHX-DCtENWd7nHbtFYUlXJhuOajulbW_bHC9sVlOQts4UKqBFgQqSaX4ekjOUwd8M2B9KwA3tOwvX_eM2/s320/Neckline.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I am very pleased with this new-to-me neckline finish. It was the first time I used it but it won't be my last!<br />
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Happy Sewing!Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com39tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-70160754933606904902016-09-10T20:51:00.000-04:002017-01-03T14:40:04.202-05:00A Firm Footing<div style="text-align: justify;">
Continuing from the <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2016/08/lift-off-we-have-lift-off.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous post</span></a>, there has been some progress on the house I am happy to say but I am eager for the house to finally be attached to the foundation. Last weekend, I was rather worried after hearing news reports that Hurricane Hermine was making its way up the East Coast. It would be a tropical storm by the time it would get to the New York / New Jersey area but with very strong wind gusts. My house is up in mid-air just resting on beams, not attached to anything. I had terrible visions of my house getting knocked off those beams. Thank goodness that storm veered off course...whew!</div>
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So in this picture, you can see how much of the foundation has been built up thus far:<br />
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Hundreds of cinder blocks were used...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR4O-S8sqmMCK1UFuYn9tZyEnnB-FlT4p3TMoiojT0-RTRVu3F_uyghUNJZxmXe7moYo06yMMrKdoCtv7oVFGXqU-qKE6UF0ByeTzit2aqJpu1np3l2PRYYwMeraK5dVEfbll8c3y4CLpW/s1600/cinder+blocks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR4O-S8sqmMCK1UFuYn9tZyEnnB-FlT4p3TMoiojT0-RTRVu3F_uyghUNJZxmXe7moYo06yMMrKdoCtv7oVFGXqU-qKE6UF0ByeTzit2aqJpu1np3l2PRYYwMeraK5dVEfbll8c3y4CLpW/s400/cinder+blocks.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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They started by creating footings:<br />
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Onto which the foundation would be built:<br />
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The house will have 6 supporting beams underneath which you see are being built here (the columns of cinder blocks):<br />
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The workers have completed most of the foundation and are now building wooden plates onto which the house will be attached to the foundation. You can see the wooden planks on the top edge of the foundation:</div>
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So hopefully within the next week or two, my house will finally be attached to the foundation. I will breathe a little easier when that happens!<br />
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<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-39312810934632438042016-08-07T19:56:00.002-04:002017-01-03T14:40:41.751-05:00Lift off! We have lift off!This post is totally unrelated to sewing. I have not been sewing the past few weeks. My sewing mojo has been gone. Kaput. I have been completely absent from the blogosphere the past few weeks as well. But there is good reason...my house is being elevated and I had to temporarily move to a new location!<br />
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I live in a neighborhood in Northern New Jersey which was severely impacted by several storms. My house suffered extensive damage during a N'oreaster in 2007; Hurricane Irene in 2011; and finally, Hurricane Sandy in 2012. It was a traumatic experience each time, with the next storm worse than the previous one.<br />
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A program became available in the State of New Jersey for homeowners who suffered extensive damage during Hurricane Sandy so I applied and was accepted to receive assistance in elevating my home. I feel so lucky to have been accepted and am extremely grateful. It is a project that is costing six figures and the state will not pay 100% of the cost but what we are receiving is very helpful. My husband and I decided to bite the bullet and go for it. We want to be out of harm's way; the flood insurance premiums will decrease dramatically and the value of our home will go up. All good things worth the temporary hassles and headaches.<br />
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Elevating a house is quite a daunting task. It takes about 4 to 6 to 8 months to elevate a house and you cannot live in the house while this work is being done so we had to pack up and move. <br />
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So here's the house as it currently sits in mid-air! Amazing, isn't it?!!<br />
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Here you see one of the workers guiding an iron beam through sections of the partially demolished foundation which will go underneath the house to help support it:</div>
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This is what the house looks like underneath. The house was lifted a few inches every hour using these giant hydraulic jacks (that's what I call them anyway). Then wooden supports were built underneath the iron beams so as to support the house while it is suspended in air:</div>
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Side view of the house. There used to be a covered deck here (boo hoo):</div>
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My house will no longer have a basement. That underground cavity will be filled in to ground level. I will then have the space in between the house and the ground that can be used for storage. However, I would only store items that I would be able to bring up next time we are threatened with another dangerous storm. </div>
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More to come...</div>
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Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-46082831731449606632016-07-23T20:49:00.000-04:002017-01-03T14:41:40.303-05:00A Simple SkirtSince I am working on creating slopers for pattern-making, I have been sewing up simple basic pieces to test the slopers which actually are turning out to be quite versatile since I can combine them with many garments already in my wardrobe. In this case, I had left over fabric from my white pants, enough to make a simple straight skirt.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlJVhJGAur2GDWTolJb4LNn4p2qL7GHuemNGxv9QQWh3bQhtR61cUGOrw68iTBwzSdbXe_qGR10JYB4eJBiQH4aeK2ZvMGNOeiCeiV8R9AAnn5HWBLixX3Is5p2YrRtYmMqe5hSgHdpFF4/s1600/Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlJVhJGAur2GDWTolJb4LNn4p2qL7GHuemNGxv9QQWh3bQhtR61cUGOrw68iTBwzSdbXe_qGR10JYB4eJBiQH4aeK2ZvMGNOeiCeiV8R9AAnn5HWBLixX3Is5p2YrRtYmMqe5hSgHdpFF4/s640/Front.jpg" width="406" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Self drafted skirt. The top is Vogue 1247 (out of print) in silk crepe de chine.</td></tr>
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As with my pants, I decided not to add pockets so as to avoid them from showing through to the right side. I also used the same waistband technique I used for my <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2016/07/pant-leg-shape-slim.html"><span style="color: blue;">white pants</span></a> where I cut the facing 1 1/2 inches wide, folded under 1/4 inch and topstitched. This results in a clean waistband finish that looks like a countered waistband. I think this will be my waistband technique go forward for white or light colored pants and skirts. I inserted an invisible zipper at center back.</div>
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The beauty with pattern-making is that once you have a sloper that fits you, just about any pattern you draft from that sloper will fit nicely. You only need to tweak the garment to account for fabric variables.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVg9xmN_56iyFPeLNkzUAVKarE8K9yXlbVwWn-BxmmfWLIDlUpTLDX4gQvLHw9cH3QLHVajH-7k4pPOYnKZjaBvwPGISdb4oqvMHBvXby3jINNm8Ugl6ppNWKZe1iZekWbsK7fIBhHhvGV/s1600/IMG_3056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVg9xmN_56iyFPeLNkzUAVKarE8K9yXlbVwWn-BxmmfWLIDlUpTLDX4gQvLHw9cH3QLHVajH-7k4pPOYnKZjaBvwPGISdb4oqvMHBvXby3jINNm8Ugl6ppNWKZe1iZekWbsK7fIBhHhvGV/s640/IMG_3056.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I used hem tape at the hem for a nice polished touch. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnyp_HI07x2kpY2xinbuvmOnTLLPf1uAuBn6hjEOtjwgNn7wJOt-nc887E27CJmsJ1j_wuye7vTLtbum1a6IBSzuuzE_kl18QkGM39j9LjUQnnJRf6l8bSYEeU30DQjInqRsWUI7WXunfd/s1600/Hem+Tape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnyp_HI07x2kpY2xinbuvmOnTLLPf1uAuBn6hjEOtjwgNn7wJOt-nc887E27CJmsJ1j_wuye7vTLtbum1a6IBSzuuzE_kl18QkGM39j9LjUQnnJRf6l8bSYEeU30DQjInqRsWUI7WXunfd/s320/Hem+Tape.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I believe this ensemble is one of my most comfortable for those hot summer days. </div>
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Happy sewing!</div>
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Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-22117228274835733592016-07-03T18:43:00.002-04:002016-07-04T09:31:27.678-04:00Pant Leg Shape: SlimWell, now that I have a pant pattern I am pleased with thanks to the <a href="http://www.jsmtailoringtools.com/store/#!/JSM-Pants-Block/p/36042706/category=9415012"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Joyce Murphy pant block</span></a> I wrote about in my <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2016/05/pants-fit-part-ii.html"><span style="color: #b45f06;">last pant post</span></a><span style="color: orange;">,</span> I decided to start playing around with leg shapes. I made a pair of white slim leg pants and overall I am happy with them. It was more of an experiment but I ended up with a pair of wearable pants I like.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slim leg pants drafted from pant block and self-drafted knit top<br />
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What I wanted was a pair of slim leg pants but not a jeans fit, not skin tight. I have a pair of ready to wear pants that have a slim leg shape I really like so I measured along the knee and along the hem and compared those measurements to the pant block. I subtracted to obtain the difference and divided by four. I then reduced equally on each side of the leg.<br />
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I made these pants out of a white cotton sateen I purchased from Mood Fabrics. The fabric has a little bit of stretch in them which, of course, affected the way the pants fit compared to the non-stretch woven pants I<span style="color: #b45f06;"> <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2016/05/pants-fit-part-ii.html"><span style="color: #b45f06;">previously made</span></a></span>. Kyle from <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Vacuuming the Lawn</span></a> has said that each fabric is its own universe and that is most definitely true.<br />
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Below on the photo on the left you can see there are drag lines along the leg. Granted, I had been sitting all day in the office so maybe they stretched out a little but they nevertheless fit better than the ready-to-wear pants on the right which I have actually worn out in public! I think I will tweak the back crotch length a little for my next pair to see what happens.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Zy1AFTxEX8ymVTH7ucqLLj-rVBiQoCKy0Eu7obDq3SVMKDvdL8xdRnWgbSdFS0cGUkFFQ98NJDHNuQ9I-_3ZxyQggOX6lYyRqhhJp2p0VTRw7dX4jdFS4KcR7qe5frYkdemQnwRn_hfN/s1600/Comparison.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Zy1AFTxEX8ymVTH7ucqLLj-rVBiQoCKy0Eu7obDq3SVMKDvdL8xdRnWgbSdFS0cGUkFFQ98NJDHNuQ9I-_3ZxyQggOX6lYyRqhhJp2p0VTRw7dX4jdFS4KcR7qe5frYkdemQnwRn_hfN/s400/Comparison.PNG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the left, pants I made. On the right, ready-to-wear pants</td></tr>
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The fabric was tightly woven and opaque so I did not see a need to line them for modesty which also makes them a cooler garment to wear on a hot day. Despite the fabric's opacity, if I were to make pockets or a fly front, you could still see the pocket bag and fly front facing through the fabric which I don't like. I therefore decided to make them very clean and simple with no pockets and an invisible zipper on the side. I could have made pockets in beige to avoid some of the see through, but I still believe you would be able to see the impression of the pockets which I also don't like! So they are as simple as simple can be for a pair of pants.</div>
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For the waist treatment, I originally drafted a facing instead of a waistband. However, I again did not like how you could see the facing on the right side. Not only that, I had serged the raw edge of the facing and you could see a ridge from the serger stitches as well. So I took inspiration from the ready-to-wear pants. I cut the facing to a width of 1 1/2 inches, folded under 1/4 inch and topstitched. The result is a clean waist finish that looks like a contoured waistband:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_s6yDCH8ceD7n6iBYjcglcU0dq73ryqfWLbeKcyz9bQrVGl-ubaby5pWIbaQBylxWDZoyNk0RNN7EYkomGheIauLwKkvOYoBc30S4ku4RVmi4MXCoStN_Dl3PEENR6Hs2mCwJ8aD8jGh/s1600/waist+finish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_s6yDCH8ceD7n6iBYjcglcU0dq73ryqfWLbeKcyz9bQrVGl-ubaby5pWIbaQBylxWDZoyNk0RNN7EYkomGheIauLwKkvOYoBc30S4ku4RVmi4MXCoStN_Dl3PEENR6Hs2mCwJ8aD8jGh/s400/waist+finish.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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I am happy overall with these new summer pants. Now I need to make more but the warm sunny days are calling me....<br />
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Happy sewing!<br />
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<span style="background-color: #bd081c; background-position: 3px 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; background-size: 14px; border-bottom-left-radius: 2px; border-bottom-right-radius: 2px; border-top-left-radius: 2px; border-top-right-radius: 2px; border: none; color: white; cursor: pointer; display: none; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold; left: 113px; line-height: 20px; opacity: 0.85; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; position: absolute; text-align: center; text-indent: 20px; top: 114px; width: auto; z-index: 8675309;">Save</span><span style="background-color: #bd081c; background-position: 3px 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; background-size: 14px; border-bottom-left-radius: 2px; border-bottom-right-radius: 2px; border-top-left-radius: 2px; border-top-right-radius: 2px; border: none; color: white; cursor: pointer; display: none; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold; left: 113px; line-height: 20px; opacity: 0.85; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; position: absolute; text-align: center; text-indent: 20px; top: 114px; width: auto; z-index: 8675309;">Save</span>Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-4154870129938710132016-06-11T15:42:00.000-04:002016-06-11T15:55:49.288-04:00So UnrulyRecently, I went to visit a wonderful exhibit of American fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi's work, <i>An Unruly History</i>, at the Jewish Museum in New York City which is on view until August 7, 2016. This exhibit most certainly made me appreciate him as a designer as the depth of his work was quite impressive.<br />
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When you first enter the exhibit, you see a wall that looks like tiles or some type of mosaic but when you get closer, it is actually hundreds (thousands?) of swatches!<br />
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You then enter this room where you see beautiful colorful garments. It is Isaac's mastery of color that I love the most. The work in the exhibit is from the 1980's through current day. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2OHlx5IUdboVHSczwP7bCbLtj6mI_qG4wSGzNrdaOmX8AvCjrBA4GwncPvDf2d7eLG0rfeE71Anf-02eVt7z2hNpDfCe_rDxOegA2qHnhJjmKfydg0mA3bWmh1b-txUJQ9Vl4LPvaLsXx/s1600/Green+and+yellow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2OHlx5IUdboVHSczwP7bCbLtj6mI_qG4wSGzNrdaOmX8AvCjrBA4GwncPvDf2d7eLG0rfeE71Anf-02eVt7z2hNpDfCe_rDxOegA2qHnhJjmKfydg0mA3bWmh1b-txUJQ9Vl4LPvaLsXx/s400/Green+and+yellow.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP_Ajr1U779pim_sfKzKEdBSYwUHmL7Aebxk-OuAP3aagIL6WhQtlNTAZQyaeMom3hFMLy28Z236Nv2ff1y-POay5mVAfbi_ED3WFUI0jCY4ghaemlm3rILd6ZreTEYrGNJ-WofxpjdkRf/s1600/orange+skirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP_Ajr1U779pim_sfKzKEdBSYwUHmL7Aebxk-OuAP3aagIL6WhQtlNTAZQyaeMom3hFMLy28Z236Nv2ff1y-POay5mVAfbi_ED3WFUI0jCY4ghaemlm3rILd6ZreTEYrGNJ-WofxpjdkRf/s400/orange+skirt.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">--Isaac Mizrahi</td></tr>
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How exciting it was to see hundreds of his sketches with his notes written on them!<br />
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You can see in Isaac's work how he absorbed all of the diverse cultures and religions one is inevitably exposed to living in New York City. His design aesthetic was also influenced by nature, politics, music...basically, everything around him. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJvEsOxRiCJ_C5jYMjl1ZgvsaiMgjhz8861Uab77c2p6EPpExQh6rJNsTdcUygG1BTmGQgc2bR7oBmYFbyjPzL6vyBIEXhffrrEm3_1nKOfCCfN2z7conNy5sVFbYrSXIxD_0ofGPxfh7/s1600/Peony.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJvEsOxRiCJ_C5jYMjl1ZgvsaiMgjhz8861Uab77c2p6EPpExQh6rJNsTdcUygG1BTmGQgc2bR7oBmYFbyjPzL6vyBIEXhffrrEm3_1nKOfCCfN2z7conNy5sVFbYrSXIxD_0ofGPxfh7/s400/Peony.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The peony is Isaac's favorite flower</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEA8JIayFVcU7v5bUlLtuOA-F8XRPMQqoCkYd-WmiDHDbqbIOOt07yb5ufw3bnwd1e-IGgh05aqQsUv_W9nn5z7dlH4Z66RdZj7gftlAERanSYSdjrEJ-gD76bbnnqwFEfcwcTnLbznGQy/s1600/Totem+pole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEA8JIayFVcU7v5bUlLtuOA-F8XRPMQqoCkYd-WmiDHDbqbIOOt07yb5ufw3bnwd1e-IGgh05aqQsUv_W9nn5z7dlH4Z66RdZj7gftlAERanSYSdjrEJ-gD76bbnnqwFEfcwcTnLbznGQy/s400/Totem+pole.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Totem pole dress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglb1-FDM7bYuE9cW2_9Qb8dTpQn0Q_q8CFMIMYjzOrysvhE2Vae3PV4474zdCGKcI8Ecx5fVxH57OC8E5kbjD_pUat8xiXn2R5YfiLhTDjmKehky1zbEdbi65_uLJZbhXAclGYf7RROldV/s1600/Wooden+beads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglb1-FDM7bYuE9cW2_9Qb8dTpQn0Q_q8CFMIMYjzOrysvhE2Vae3PV4474zdCGKcI8Ecx5fVxH57OC8E5kbjD_pUat8xiXn2R5YfiLhTDjmKehky1zbEdbi65_uLJZbhXAclGYf7RROldV/s400/Wooden+beads.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wooden bead jacket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-QLajVOJ_LBoSuFUJinLRleUim-EaIH0kvP5pSmfHvFGttmM7n5OswzSic0GyiBCEkaZ42GEhAx9u5Cm0_oTsExHEu4sK6n83bbb8kq3birirtSA6Bkkz9fQpUxMdydfW30TxiOf6bhYX/s1600/Poppy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-QLajVOJ_LBoSuFUJinLRleUim-EaIH0kvP5pSmfHvFGttmM7n5OswzSic0GyiBCEkaZ42GEhAx9u5Cm0_oTsExHEu4sK6n83bbb8kq3birirtSA6Bkkz9fQpUxMdydfW30TxiOf6bhYX/s400/Poppy.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poppy flower. The fabric of the dress in the background is hand painted.</td></tr>
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Something I did not know about Isaac was his work designing puppets for children's plays. It was so much fun to see the accompanying footage of the puppets in the productions. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMneLvTUlU4IuoO6kjuRoL4BdC0dy5UBcja9ORFJikqSeFst3q04Q4DxgpPUDdJlQN3AIP0Dl1TPbn2n3jMcS1meiY4OzGUtpfp5hUZdHbxp_h9V77xkzKF_2ZVW-DQLC_aj3vR7-Rpro/s1600/Ostrich.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMneLvTUlU4IuoO6kjuRoL4BdC0dy5UBcja9ORFJikqSeFst3q04Q4DxgpPUDdJlQN3AIP0Dl1TPbn2n3jMcS1meiY4OzGUtpfp5hUZdHbxp_h9V77xkzKF_2ZVW-DQLC_aj3vR7-Rpro/s320/Ostrich.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ostrich puppet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirS59CETHz_NduvUcP9zEw3Lv4G7E41gWQ_f3GrTHDAkDBqX1sEts1KNKBsAXZsrUeZXwhjKg7xdX17GFSF6SSciZr1cTt37Erga1vUJuRbryHj2JtO8e8p2cOnPkSbSiWccd-lcrp5_8b/s1600/Owl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirS59CETHz_NduvUcP9zEw3Lv4G7E41gWQ_f3GrTHDAkDBqX1sEts1KNKBsAXZsrUeZXwhjKg7xdX17GFSF6SSciZr1cTt37Erga1vUJuRbryHj2JtO8e8p2cOnPkSbSiWccd-lcrp5_8b/s320/Owl.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Owl puppet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Toward the end of the exhibit, there are also some short films of his early fashion shows where you see the great supermodels Linda Evangelista and Christy Burlington walking the catwalk in his designs.<br />
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If you are in New York City anytime between now and August 7, do try to visit this fabulous exhibit. You will enjoy it! The museum is located on 5th Avenue at 92nd Street. Call them at 212-423-3337 for hours and entrance fees.Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-88975945274542960002016-05-21T16:29:00.001-04:002017-01-20T14:24:38.158-05:00Pants Fit - Part II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For me, by far the most perplexing garment to fit are pants. They must fit up and down and around as all other garments but they must also have the correct crotch curve shape and length and fit around 3 "cylinders" (the torso and 2 legs). The fit adjustments are oftentimes counterintuitive.</div>
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Over the years, I have taken online classes and attended every pant fitting class offered in the sewing expos I have attended. Each class offered new insights as to why pants fit and don't fit. The most beneficial class I have taken was a 3 day workshop offered by the NJ Chapter of the ASDP (Association of Sewing and Design Professionals)<span style="color: blue;"> </span>taught by Karen Bengtson (member of the Colorado chapter). You can read more about the process in my <a href="http://www.sewmuchfashion.com/2016/04/pants-fit-part-i.html"><span style="color: blue;">previous post</span></a>.<br />
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The pants pattern was based on the methods and techniques developed by<span style="color: blue;"> <a href="https://www.sccanda.com/store/#!/JSM-Pants-Block/p/36042706/category=22096576"><span style="color: blue;">Joyce Murphy</span></a></span> who also wrote an article in the December/January 2006 Issue 122 of <i>Threads</i> magazine entitled, "Adjusting Pants from Waist to Seat." It was a fascinating article where she explained the concept of body spaces and how they relate to the crotch length and more importantly, how there are an infinite number of shapes of body spaces. She also explained why the commonly recommended adjustments often don't work.<br />
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I am very happy with the result but I want to understand why they fit. Below is my analysis.<br />
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Here are the Joyce Murphy pants, front view:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GgHOajXZje6C8qt4ziSB6c9aGLZsy1DfkJFZY2F3W4Rqn2M9MdWtpXUwO8WsExht8hMmxRWjNsPG-ciziX4oHCiEoAghC7JMgm8xAcw7f5OcClZWdwKB2rvwJie5_LJovtOx8RYDhuVa/s1600/Front+9.45.42+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GgHOajXZje6C8qt4ziSB6c9aGLZsy1DfkJFZY2F3W4Rqn2M9MdWtpXUwO8WsExht8hMmxRWjNsPG-ciziX4oHCiEoAghC7JMgm8xAcw7f5OcClZWdwKB2rvwJie5_LJovtOx8RYDhuVa/s400/Front+9.45.42+PM.jpg" width="337" /></a></div>
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And most importantly for me, the back view. There is a little bit of a wrinkling below my derriere on the left side due to my left hip being lower but it doesn't bother me:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvzgSxReeE5RBmmJAcEI1G9iZ3AhDEkQNrLrJjMG3R_0Te5q5nEModKSoPm_N4bJo7eMSL3bXvD6Q44jMuyoBnODtSoxDvmR7z4X8Whn-Y4e1tT9t1ChpudJ0y6v0-sr2SuTwf-136ronS/s1600/Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvzgSxReeE5RBmmJAcEI1G9iZ3AhDEkQNrLrJjMG3R_0Te5q5nEModKSoPm_N4bJo7eMSL3bXvD6Q44jMuyoBnODtSoxDvmR7z4X8Whn-Y4e1tT9t1ChpudJ0y6v0-sr2SuTwf-136ronS/s400/Back.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Below are photos of a muslin based on a standard Big 4 pant pattern:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIo3oLzLypylpx0yTXHvKb7i717dhBS_wEnJd-_Wjy06bSz_-fn4ZGlxA7G9IBmDJZPbJdUR9HYIHMbCGhepcIW9uqD25dqxlUnQ7VE9WKpwreEerzFyf1h0PJ1sh7wxTTZRAY1vwoZo-d/s1600/Front+muslin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIo3oLzLypylpx0yTXHvKb7i717dhBS_wEnJd-_Wjy06bSz_-fn4ZGlxA7G9IBmDJZPbJdUR9HYIHMbCGhepcIW9uqD25dqxlUnQ7VE9WKpwreEerzFyf1h0PJ1sh7wxTTZRAY1vwoZo-d/s400/Front+muslin.jpg" width="366" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big 4 pant pattern muslin - Front</td></tr>
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I don't like how the front crotch fits. There is too much fabric there and the fabric seems to hang from the bottom of the zipper opening. I do need to take in the sides but most of the bagginess you see on the sides is actually coming from the back:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQqi5wB0SrZO0QlA_ejI7LYoWrcbUM4FwVVcum256sViNFy0w_cvWLwb49RIm6xr7ybmVSd6j0h26JItrVqZV8JVc5krV1S7ER2OhbxTdU5Ah1NrtKI8aUhTq7cBIdppHViklX0f0d1wv1/s1600/Back+muslin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQqi5wB0SrZO0QlA_ejI7LYoWrcbUM4FwVVcum256sViNFy0w_cvWLwb49RIm6xr7ybmVSd6j0h26JItrVqZV8JVc5krV1S7ER2OhbxTdU5Ah1NrtKI8aUhTq7cBIdppHViklX0f0d1wv1/s400/Back+muslin.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big 4 pant pattern muslin - Back</td></tr>
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I have a flat derriere and thin thighs. It looks like I need less fabric around the thighs so you would think what I need is to take in some fabric along the inseams. One instructor suggested I take in the inseams and scoop out the crotch but that didn't work. I still had bagginess. Here's the counterintuitive part: I needed <b><i>more</i> </b>fabric there!<br />
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In the photo below, I placed the Big 4 pant pattern back (the tissue) on top of the Joyce Murphy pant pattern (white paper) and you can see how the Joyce Murphy pant pattern has a longer back crotch length! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj636W1XEQV-bCSt2Mtpstp5XlFR3mF4MdZuFc5Ls4sP52WWFh0UTSvrvzeu-kaxeIQONBcoFWtZWg2Uf7CKjJUzgL3TZ98yd98q3n5PuDJ3PHAJ_m0ufyYMlDkrI-mNF0miwwgAZxK6fvh/s1600/Back+crotch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj636W1XEQV-bCSt2Mtpstp5XlFR3mF4MdZuFc5Ls4sP52WWFh0UTSvrvzeu-kaxeIQONBcoFWtZWg2Uf7CKjJUzgL3TZ98yd98q3n5PuDJ3PHAJ_m0ufyYMlDkrI-mNF0miwwgAZxK6fvh/s320/Back+crotch.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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In the photo below, the Joyce Murphy front crotch is 3/4 inch shorter than the Big 4 pant pattern front. This smaller measurement takes away the excess fabric at the front:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjelbax6O6vA4O2nR5yj0meOfA_S2eHZzMZJa2SV2zZ-ZzUc-kDz2A3Nfcle_nJJ6uthmyiaJZcIe7VmoblCLoExJZChL2k7lt0gATjiiNr72dCg-8yIYyI2eCtp0LTU-IDNPM7cZNuxKZo/s1600/Front+crotch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjelbax6O6vA4O2nR5yj0meOfA_S2eHZzMZJa2SV2zZ-ZzUc-kDz2A3Nfcle_nJJ6uthmyiaJZcIe7VmoblCLoExJZChL2k7lt0gATjiiNr72dCg-8yIYyI2eCtp0LTU-IDNPM7cZNuxKZo/s320/Front+crotch.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Another very important factor is the crotch curve. At the risk of over sharing, here is mine. I obtained it using a flexible ruler. I placed a red rubber band where my inseam is located. Given that I have a flat derriere, I was absolutely astonished that my shape was so round, almost a perfect circle - ha! I did this repeatedly to make sure I got the shape right, because I just couldn't believe it, but I kept coming up with this. The space inside the flexible ruler is what Joyce Murphy calls "body space." Everyone has their own unique body space:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIL1vpVB6DDnF4Ngr6NzeGnxQpYj1bZnPhrlK8t69LNZYRH5P3cHxjIwj-tdTisMYl8-H5XpT4kIRsVEp84YdtQrijQuHuypZt3sgDrwTlFPYB45xqQxXro5jD0sm9LbS0la_lwzBoJKLe/s1600/Crotch+shape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIL1vpVB6DDnF4Ngr6NzeGnxQpYj1bZnPhrlK8t69LNZYRH5P3cHxjIwj-tdTisMYl8-H5XpT4kIRsVEp84YdtQrijQuHuypZt3sgDrwTlFPYB45xqQxXro5jD0sm9LbS0la_lwzBoJKLe/s320/Crotch+shape.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So when I took the above photo and drew in "legs", the flat derriere (as well as tummy - boohoo) becomes evident. Funny how the eye can distort reality (or is it wishful thinking)!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvxX74T5ihADT3xxImFywxNuOGUtp2ShasTb12jkuSggjQ4US5tICDctFzLn3Uud6d9zvug9_Rz8Fek2V_wiJIdsIZub9c0g1pBxbOo9vmdqbv51O9zuxmliObOOb4HRqmkIkgY5UEW7t2/s1600/with+legs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvxX74T5ihADT3xxImFywxNuOGUtp2ShasTb12jkuSggjQ4US5tICDctFzLn3Uud6d9zvug9_Rz8Fek2V_wiJIdsIZub9c0g1pBxbOo9vmdqbv51O9zuxmliObOOb4HRqmkIkgY5UEW7t2/s320/with+legs.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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When I abut the front and back Joyce Murphy pattern pieces together and place the flexible ruler along the crotch, the shape matches the flexible ruler quite nicely:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioj5SK5ftZTPj42FGlqagtouyp-twQwieW7-JG-coeDn5QM8xrRI2YQ-Bq2yiojuguKyPpJIpE4GcIrBbt4d1LK3WUNHhGvWrIZZ56tX2olycMQTM6SfUz4swrMECewhntx9-1_bslKZCd/s1600/Crotch+curve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioj5SK5ftZTPj42FGlqagtouyp-twQwieW7-JG-coeDn5QM8xrRI2YQ-Bq2yiojuguKyPpJIpE4GcIrBbt4d1LK3WUNHhGvWrIZZ56tX2olycMQTM6SfUz4swrMECewhntx9-1_bslKZCd/s400/Crotch+curve.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Another factor at play here is the angle of the center back seam. The more angled the seam, the more it can accommodate a curvier derriere and the opposite is true for a flat derriere. You don't need much of an angle for a flat derriere. Why?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNplTDAE9OxKqqHdINKfztTzjXv4sipcsIZ3xSFCQlTQtLLmC2AzX5WNUYUXwFx3OivgrMP8YWyvvxR5aDY0qBcVNO4GGzAGFkQQ1lnj0SwtOcBbNdIkCvPnm9vo9hrJANUv4tBc0ZSh5e/s1600/A+Dart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNplTDAE9OxKqqHdINKfztTzjXv4sipcsIZ3xSFCQlTQtLLmC2AzX5WNUYUXwFx3OivgrMP8YWyvvxR5aDY0qBcVNO4GGzAGFkQQ1lnj0SwtOcBbNdIkCvPnm9vo9hrJANUv4tBc0ZSh5e/s320/A+Dart.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A DART!!!!</td></tr>
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In the above photo, I traced the pattern so that I have both the left and right sides of the back pattern and had them meet at the back notch since this is what you would do when you sew. And what do you see - A DART! If you think about men's shirts, there are no bust darts because they are flat. Women's fitted and semi-fitted blouses have darts, because they are needed for shaping over the bust. As those of us who must make full bust adjustments know, the bigger the bust, the larger the dart. Those who are small in this area must make a small bust adjustment, a smaller dart.<br />
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Same goes for pants! The curvier the derriere, the larger the "dart" needs to be so a greater angle would help. Someone with a flat derriere, like myself, needs a smaller "dart" or an angle that is at less of an angle. I first heard of this center back "dart" in a Lorraine Henry class at an expo.<br />
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So for me, in order to get pants that fit nicely, I needed to add to the back crotch length, reduce the front crotch length, make sure the crotch curve mirrored mine and reduce the angle of the center back seam. Whew!<br />
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There is a wealth of information out there on fitting pants and many different methods. Finding the method that works for you requires much experimentation but most of all perseverance and patience.<br />
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Now I want to use this pant block to create pants with different leg shapes and in different fabrics. I am sure these changes will present their own challenges, especially different types of fabric. Hmmmm...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdo9YsllZSSHyuy7_ILi0wOntlNekjvnfVKLGIHIqUs8dbnhjzdO6io5C2xVdW54csg8YM6nf8uDQij3xsxUeJ-bMP8RVW-RIC0yYK3tmNRWluP_iO5mHuobtE_HdnVKiURiD1v-3-kuOA/s1600/Hmmm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdo9YsllZSSHyuy7_ILi0wOntlNekjvnfVKLGIHIqUs8dbnhjzdO6io5C2xVdW54csg8YM6nf8uDQij3xsxUeJ-bMP8RVW-RIC0yYK3tmNRWluP_iO5mHuobtE_HdnVKiURiD1v-3-kuOA/s640/Hmmm.jpg" width="428" /></a></div>
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Happy sewing!<br />
<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-21881619997755791232016-04-30T13:02:00.001-04:002017-01-20T14:20:47.393-05:00Pants Fit: Part IThroughout the years, I have tried many different methods of pant fitting in an attempt to make pants that fit me nicely. I have taken many online classes. I have gone to seminars. I have taken every pant fitting class offered at the sewing expos I have attended. Each class deepened my understanding of pant fitting and why pants don't fit me well. Despite all my efforts, I could not make pants that fit me properly. My problem is that I have too much fabric below the derriere. There have been times where I got so exasperated that I just put the whole thing aside and picked it up much later.<br />
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By far the method that worked best for me was a pant fitting class offered some time ago by the NJ Chapter of the <a href="http://www.sewingprofessionals.org/"><span style="color: blue;">ASDP (Association of Sewing and Design Professionals)</span></a> taught by Karen Bengtson (member of the Colorado Chapter). Karen based her techniques on the Joyce Murphy method of pants fitting using Joyce Murphy's <a href="https://www.sccanda.com/store/#!/JSM-Pants-Block/p/36042706/category=22096576"><span style="color: blue;">pant block</span></a>.<br />
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Karen had a "test pant" of each size of the pant block. She had us try on the test pant that came closest to our size and then "draped" them on us. She took it in here and there until she was satisfied with the resulting fit. She measured the adjustments and had us record them. <br />
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We then traced Joyce Murphy's pant block and transferred the recorded adjustments to the pattern we had traced. We then cut the pants out in fabric and sewed them. It was a 3 day class well worth the time and effort.</div>
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Goodness - they had a nice fit! Just a little bit of wrinkling below the derriere on the left (my left hip is lower) but it doesn't bother me at all. Woo hoo!<br />
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And now I am a happy camper!</div>
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Karen Bengtson still does pant fitting sessions so if you are interested, do contact her by emailing her at Karenssewunique at gmail dot com. If you want to try the method on your own, you can certainly do so. Check out Joyce Murphy's website where you can purchase the <a href="https://www.sccanda.com/store/#!/JSM-Pants-Block/p/36042706/category=22096576"><span style="color: blue;">pant block</span></a>. Joyce wrote 3 articles for <i>Threads</i> magazine which will assist you with fitting the pants: Issues 119, 122 and 139. By studying these articles, you can try her techniques and methods and see if they work for you. (By the way, I have no affiliate relationships with either Karen or Joyce.)</div>
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Joyce Murphy's pant block uses a European cut. I notice that the pattern has a different crotch shape and different crotch lengths for the front and back pattern pieces than do the Big 4. For my next post, I am going to explore why I think her pant block worked for me.</div>
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Until next time, Happy Sewing!</div>
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Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-519173124637732692.post-49208159523231365412016-04-07T22:06:00.000-04:002016-04-07T22:06:23.018-04:00I am HonoredI feel so honored and flattered that Faye from Faye's Sewing Adventure has featured me on her wonderful blog. Faye currently has a fun interview series going on and I am so excited to have been selected. You can check out the interview <a href="http://fayessewingadventure.blogspot.com/2016/04/when-sewing-calls.html"><span style="color: blue;">here</span></a>.<br />
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While you are there, be sure to check out the interviews she has done of some fun and inspiring bloggers. It is so gracious of her to do this for her fellow bloggers.<br />
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Thank you so much Faye!<br />
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<br />Tomasahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.com8