The pattern is self-drafted. It is another simple shape, a basic bodice, to which I drafted a little collar to add some interest.
Since I find the raw edge of linen scratchy against my skin, I decided to sew flat fell seams for the side seams. For the armholes, I created bias tape from the same linen fabric. White fabric tends to show the insides and I just didn't want a large dart take-up to show through to the outside so I trimmed the dart and finished the edges of the dart with a blanket stitch by hand.
It is amazing how hanging on the hanger, the neckline looks like it would be so much lower but on the body it is not. I will be making this blouse again but next time, I will lower the V-neckline further to make it look more like what you see on the hanger.
Speaking of the neckline, the V-shape creates a bias edge that is prone to stretching while handling. To prevent this from happening, I fused straight grain fusible tape along the edge as soon as I removed the garment sections from the pattern. I did likewise with the armholes and the shoulder seams.
With my next version, I will also bring the back darts closer to each other. They look a little too far apart to me.
I am rather pleased with how the collar turned out. It stands up as it curves around the neckline which you can see here:
If you would like to try your hand at drafting this collar, let me tell you it is the easiest collar ever to draft. It was all straight lines and then I rounded the corners. Measure from the center back to whatever point you decide you want it to end. In my case it was 11 inches. Then decide how wide you want it to be. In my case, it is 1 inch. As for the corners, I rounded them using a French curve but you can free hand the shape or use the edge of a can. I added 1/4 inch seam allowances for the collar and neckline.
I find that using a small seam allowance does away with the need to trim. With white clothes especially, you want a straight clean edge. I find I can cut a straight edge when I am cutting out with the pattern but no so much when trimming. I used lightweight fusible weft interfacing for the collar.
To attach the collar, make sure the center back of the garment neckline edge and the center back of the collar align. Then sandwich the collar in between the garment and the facing, pin and sew.
What a lovely blouse! The V-shape and collar combination is beautiful. Hopefully you'll enjoy some more warm fall days!ReplyDelete
Thank you Marianne. We might have one warm fall day this week...we'll see. It has cooled down considerably as of this morning!Delete
I really love your blouse and the collar is indeed a masterpiece (it reminds me of one of Miss Fisher's blouses which I also plan to knock off!). We've been having a warm fall over here in Portugal too (I think in past years I'd be sewing coats by now!). I am also diving into pattern making and I plan on sewing a series of classic shirts with different collars in the near future.ReplyDelete
Thanks so much Tany. You will enjoy patternmaking. It will open up a whole new world for you.Delete
Such a cute neckline detail, thanks for giving the information on how to do it!ReplyDelete
You're welcome Faye!Delete
This is lovely! I like the v-neckline and the banded collar. You can still wear it under a cardigan right?! Cause I think the last of summer's grace has finally left us and we are firmly into fall starting this week.ReplyDelete
Thanks so very much Carolyn. Yes I may be able to get away with wearing it underneath a cardigan or jacket. You are right. The summer-like weather is gone. It was so cold th is morning! I think it's over now...haha!Delete
I love off season sewing! I think your self drafted blouse is simply beautiful on you. I love the special touches on the inside, and your flat felled seams look great.ReplyDelete
Thanks Vanessa! I just didn't want it to become a UFO. I already have a UFO from last winter which I hope I can get to soon.Delete
It is a beautiful top, inside and out! I'm with you on the cold weather clothes. Perhaps soon.ReplyDelete
Thanks Barbara! I think we've turned the corner with the weather, although you never know with this crazy weather. I remember a couple of years ago it was 75 degrees on Christmas Eve!Delete
This is impeccable! I love a crisp white linen blouse and this takes the cake. That collar is killer.ReplyDelete
Thanks so much Bianca! I'm glad you like it :)Delete
Beautifully made and it looks just perfect on you.ReplyDelete
Thanks so very much Connie!Delete
What a fantastic job! I really love the small collar, and it's so unique and lovely:) You should start own pattern line. Bravo!ReplyDelete
Thanks so much Eli cat!Delete
So pretty. The design is lovely and your work(wo)manship is top notch!ReplyDelete
Thanks so very much Debbie. Yes, agreed - work(wo)manship indeed!Delete
I am enjoying all the detail of this pretty blouse. You did a great work, Tomasa. Beautifully done inside and out. Happy sewing.ReplyDelete
Thanks so much Hana Velvet Ribbon. I always like the inside to be as clean as possible.Delete
White, crisp and even... just like snow! Love the collar detail and you suit white so well too!ReplyDelete
Thanks so much! I don't wear white too often but maybe I should.Delete
This is just lovely! I am in awe of your pattern drafting skills.ReplyDelete
Thank you so much! Pattern drafting gives you the freedom to do what you like. I encourage you to give it a try. I still buy patterns though!Delete
that's such a sweet little blouse! the collar is adorable. Clever you! :)ReplyDelete
Thanks so much Carolyn! I look forward to wearing it when it warms up again.Delete
Lots of amazing details on your blouse. You did such a great job and it looks so perfect on you.ReplyDelete