Sunday, October 29, 2017

It Ain't Over til It's Over

With the onset of the fall season, garment makers in the Northern Hemisphere have turned to making cardigans, jackets and clothing appropriate for cooler weather.  I, however, have just finished making this little white summer linen blouse.  I purchased the fabric at Gray Lines Linen in NYC (on 39th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues) back in June.  The idea of this blouse has been in my head for months and I intended to make it to wear for summer but oh well, I just couldn't get to it.  Add to that the fact that we have thus far had a warm fall here in the northeastern U.S. so I still wasn't in the mood for working with warm fabrics.  Summer just hasn't felt like it's been over!




The pattern is self-drafted.  It is another simple shape, a basic bodice, to which I drafted a little collar to add some interest.



Since I find the raw edge of linen scratchy against my skin, I decided to sew flat fell seams for the side seams.  For the armholes, I created bias tape from the same linen fabric.  White fabric tends to show the insides and I just didn't want a large dart take-up to show through to the outside so I trimmed the dart and finished the edges of the dart with a blanket stitch by hand.



I also decided to make the facings part of the design so I turned them to the outside and topstitched them.  The facing width is 1 inch plus 1/4 inch seam allowances.

It is amazing how hanging on the hanger, the neckline looks like it would be so much lower but on the body it is not.  I will be making this blouse again but next time, I will lower the V-neckline further to make it look more like what you see on the hanger.


Speaking of the neckline, the V-shape creates a bias edge that is prone to stretching while handling.  To prevent this from happening, I fused straight grain fusible tape along the edge as soon as I removed the garment sections from the pattern.  I did likewise with the armholes and the shoulder seams.  

With my next version, I will also bring the back darts closer to each other.  They look a little too far apart to me.



I am rather pleased with how the collar turned out.  It stands up as it curves around the neckline which you can see here:



If you would like to try your hand at drafting this collar, let me tell you it is the easiest collar ever to draft.  It was all straight lines and then I rounded the corners.  Measure from the center back to whatever point you decide you want it to end.  In my case it was 11 inches.  Then decide how wide you want it to be.  In my case, it is 1 inch.  As for the corners, I rounded them using a French curve but you can free hand the shape or use the edge of a can.  I added 1/4 inch seam allowances for the collar and neckline.


I find that using a small seam allowance does away with the need to trim.  With white clothes especially, you want a straight clean edge.  I find I can cut a straight edge when I am cutting out with the pattern but no so much when trimming.  I used lightweight fusible weft interfacing for the collar.

To attach the collar, make sure the center back of the garment neckline edge and the center back of the collar align.  Then sandwich the collar in between the garment and the facing, pin and sew.

Happy Sewing!


26 comments:

  1. What a lovely blouse! The V-shape and collar combination is beautiful. Hopefully you'll enjoy some more warm fall days!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Marianne. We might have one warm fall day this week...we'll see. It has cooled down considerably as of this morning!

      Delete
  2. I really love your blouse and the collar is indeed a masterpiece (it reminds me of one of Miss Fisher's blouses which I also plan to knock off!). We've been having a warm fall over here in Portugal too (I think in past years I'd be sewing coats by now!). I am also diving into pattern making and I plan on sewing a series of classic shirts with different collars in the near future.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much Tany. You will enjoy patternmaking. It will open up a whole new world for you.

      Delete
  3. Such a cute neckline detail, thanks for giving the information on how to do it!

    ReplyDelete
  4. This is lovely! I like the v-neckline and the banded collar. You can still wear it under a cardigan right?! Cause I think the last of summer's grace has finally left us and we are firmly into fall starting this week.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so very much Carolyn. Yes I may be able to get away with wearing it underneath a cardigan or jacket. You are right. The summer-like weather is gone. It was so cold th is morning! I think it's over now...haha!

      Delete
  5. I love off season sewing! I think your self drafted blouse is simply beautiful on you. I love the special touches on the inside, and your flat felled seams look great.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Vanessa! I just didn't want it to become a UFO. I already have a UFO from last winter which I hope I can get to soon.

      Delete
  6. It is a beautiful top, inside and out! I'm with you on the cold weather clothes. Perhaps soon.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Barbara! I think we've turned the corner with the weather, although you never know with this crazy weather. I remember a couple of years ago it was 75 degrees on Christmas Eve!

      Delete
  7. This is impeccable! I love a crisp white linen blouse and this takes the cake. That collar is killer.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much Bianca! I'm glad you like it :)

      Delete
  8. Beautifully made and it looks just perfect on you.

    ReplyDelete
  9. What a fantastic job! I really love the small collar, and it's so unique and lovely:) You should start own pattern line. Bravo!

    ReplyDelete
  10. So pretty. The design is lovely and your work(wo)manship is top notch!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so very much Debbie. Yes, agreed - work(wo)manship indeed!

      Delete
  11. I am enjoying all the detail of this pretty blouse. You did a great work, Tomasa. Beautifully done inside and out. Happy sewing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much Hana Velvet Ribbon. I always like the inside to be as clean as possible.

      Delete
  12. White, crisp and even... just like snow! Love the collar detail and you suit white so well too!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much! I don't wear white too often but maybe I should.

      Delete
  13. This is just lovely! I am in awe of your pattern drafting skills.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thank you so much! Pattern drafting gives you the freedom to do what you like. I encourage you to give it a try. I still buy patterns though!

    ReplyDelete