Sunday, September 25, 2016

An Interesting Print, Laziness and Fold Over Elastic

Recently, I purchased a printed rayon knit fabric from Mood Fabrics in NYC on MPB day in August. I was drawn to the fabric because of the colors and the print.  The print looks like various photographic images of city scenes.  After I purchased it, I didn't like it because it seemed dark and somber.  Determined not to have wasted my money, I cut out and sewed this self-drafted top so now I like the fabric again.  It's unique and it fits well.








This is a print requiring thought and planning as to where certain images would be placed.  However, feelings of laziness set in, probably because I was not feeling too excited about the fabric at the time,  and I was going to cut it on the double.  Luckily, I had gotten together with a dear sewing friend who urged me to cut it single layer so I could plan where the images would go.  It took less than 5 minutes to copy the pattern so that I had both the left and right sides in one pattern piece for the front.  I am so glad she intervened!

Below is a closeup of the fabric:



You can see buildings, cobblestone streets, people walking along a sidewalk, rain falling.  Could you imagine if I had the images of people walking across my sizable chest or a red blotch?  Not good!  Crisis averted.

Before working on this top, I had seen a blog post by Anne Whalley about a beautiful dress she had made where she finished the neckline edge with fold over elastic.  I loved it.  I also had seen what a great job Kyle from Vacuuming the Lawn had done with a lace tank and skirt set she made where she used fold over elastic to finish the tank's neckline and make the straps.  I decided to give it a try.

Since this was my first time using fold over elastic, I relied heavily on my old stand by:  hand basting.  Below are the steps I followed.  I am sure there are those of you out there who can apply this with no or very little basting (practice makes perfect) but this is what worked for me for now.

As you can see from the photo below, the fold over elastic has an indentation along the middle where you fold it.  Once you fold it, one side is actually slightly larger than the other side.  This is so you can place the larger side underneath the fashion fabric and the smaller side on top, so that when you topstitch it on top, the stitching catches the larger side underneath.



1.  I placed the raw edge of the fabric on top of the larger side of the elastic with the raw edge meeting the indentation.



2.  I then hand basted it in place.  I pulled the elastic just a bit as I was basting -- this is important so that the elastic will lay flat against your body.  As I basted, I also made sure to feel and check with my fingers that the bottom side of the elastic did not shift and remained larger than the top.  Below you can see the ripples caused by stretching the elastic which will not show when you put on the garment (as long as you didn't stretch too much).



3.  I then folded the remaining elastic over to the right side and basted again.



4.  I then topstitched it close to the edge on the right side and removed all of the basting.  You can see below how the stitching caught the elastic at the bottom.


I am very pleased with this new-to-me neckline finish.  It was the first time I used it but it won't be my last!

Happy Sewing!

38 comments:

  1. Such a cute little top. You look great!

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  2. Perfect for fall and the fit is on point.

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    1. Thanks Mariela. I do consider it a good fall top.

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  3. thanks for the clear photo's and information about you handbasting first. The result is great!

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    1. Thanks SpinningAnna. Hand basting is a great tool. I use it whenever I feel I need control and accuracy.

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  4. This is great. Your fit is nice and love this print. The FOE neckline is a good idea.

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    1. Thanks Bianca! I do like the print now...it's interesting. I most certainly will be using FOE again.

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  5. You've convinced me to jump on the FOE bandwagon .

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  6. I adore FOE. It's just not so easy to come by here! Love your top Tomasa and the print is looking very autumnal :) Hope all is going well with your house x

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    1. Thank you Winter-Queen. I will be using this top often for fall. I am glad I finally gave FOE a try. My house is coming along.

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  7. Love the top -- so glad you used that cool fabric!

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    1. Thanks Peter! Yes, I am glad I used it and I am now rather fond of it!

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  8. You made such a cool top, and your placement ended up perfect!

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    1. Thanks Vanessa! I am grateful to my friend for urging me to cut single layer.

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  9. Wow! Very nice top! Is that a self-drafted? It looks perfect on you:)

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    1. Thank you so much Eli cat! Yes, the pattern is self-drafted. I am happy with the fit too.

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  10. Your top looks great and WOW your hair is SO long! I really wanted to grow my hair out but it just got too tangled.

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    1. p.s. Thanks for the shout-out!

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    2. You are welcome. It is an adorable lace tank so I was happy to do so!

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    3. Thanks about my hair. I think it is getting too long but just haven't gotten around to getting it cut. Just as well your hair is short...the longer the hair the more work it is!

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  11. Super top, the fit looks spot on and it's perfect timing, I have some knit remnants that ithought could become vests and had toyed with using FOE but wasn't sure how to get it right. Thank you.

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    1. Yes, do give FOE a try. I hope the information I have provided above will be helpful.

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  12. From one "baste-o-holic" to another.....looks amazing!

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    1. Thanks Mainelydad. Basting has saved me from many conundrums!

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  13. Beautiful binding! Darling top!

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    1. Thanks so much Bunny! I wasn't too enthusiastic about it when I started working on it but I am pleased with the result.

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  14. Pretty top and cool fabric! I love your work on the neckline :)

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    1. Thank you Hana Velvet Ribbon! I like the neckline too thanks to the fold over elastic.

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  15. The top looks really pretty. The fabric is unique and adds to the beauty of the garment. Great fit, too!

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    1. Thanks so much! It is very comfortable (because it fits).

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  16. The neckline finish is perfect! That fabric was looking for that top. I hope the house is down now, and high and dry.

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    1. Thanks so much Barbara. Yes, the house is now finally on the foundation and no longer at risk of flooding. Much work needs to be done but the most important (being elevated) has been accomplished - yay!

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  17. that looks great! the binding looks beautifully finished :)

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  18. I like your new top! Though I think I'm a little too cavalier in my application of fold over elastic after reading your process. BTW, I hope all is well with the house and that it's been settled onto its foundation without further drama!

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    1. Thanks so much Carolyn! You are not cavalier at all - I am sure you have an experienced hand with this fold over elastic thus eliminating many of the steps I outlined above. The house was lowered and attached onto the foundation several weeks ago. What a relief that was! The siding has been done and the stairs built. Now they are working on the plumbing and electric. It's coming along!

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