Sunday, July 3, 2016

Pant Leg Shape: Slim

Well, now that I have a pant pattern I am pleased with thanks to the Joyce Murphy pant block I wrote about in my last pant post,  I decided to start playing around with leg shapes.  I made a pair of white slim leg pants and overall I am happy with them.  It was more of an experiment but I ended up with a pair of wearable pants I like.

Slim leg pants drafted from pant block and self-drafted knit top

What I wanted was a pair of slim leg pants but not a jeans fit, not skin tight.  I have a pair of ready to wear pants that have a slim leg shape I really like so I measured along the knee and along the hem and compared those measurements to the pant block.  I subtracted to obtain the difference and divided by four.  I then reduced equally on each side of the leg.


I made these pants out of a white cotton sateen I purchased from Mood Fabrics.  The fabric has a little bit of stretch in them which, of course, affected the way the pants fit compared to the non-stretch woven pants I previously made.  Kyle from Vacuuming the Lawn has said that each fabric is its own universe and that is most definitely true.

Below on the photo on the left you can see there are drag lines along the leg. Granted, I had been sitting all day in the office so maybe they stretched out a little but they nevertheless fit better than the ready-to-wear pants on the right which I have actually worn out in public!  I think I will tweak the back crotch length a little for my next pair to see what happens.

On the left, pants I made.  On the right, ready-to-wear pants
The fabric was tightly woven and opaque so I did not see a need to line them for modesty which also makes them a cooler garment to wear on a hot day.  Despite the fabric's opacity, if I were to make pockets or a fly front, you could still see the pocket bag and fly front facing through the fabric which I don't like.  I therefore decided to make them very clean and simple with no pockets and an invisible zipper on the side.  I could have made pockets in beige to avoid some of the see through, but I still believe you would be able to see the impression of the pockets which I also don't like!  So they are as simple as simple can be for a pair of pants.

For the waist treatment, I originally drafted a facing instead of a waistband.  However, I again did not like how you could see the facing on the right side.  Not only that, I had serged the raw edge of the facing and you could see a ridge from the serger stitches as well.  So I took inspiration from the ready-to-wear pants.  I cut the facing to a width of 1 1/2 inches, folded under 1/4 inch and topstitched.  The result is a clean waist finish that looks like a contoured waistband:



I am happy overall with these new summer pants.  Now I need to make more but the warm sunny days are calling me....

Happy sewing!

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30 comments:

  1. You ended up with a gorgeous pair of slim fit pants!

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  2. That is a wonderful slim leg fit. I am taking your advice because that is just the width that I am looking for. Thanks for sharing!

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    1. I am glad the information is helpful to you!

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  3. They look very chic! Perfect for summer.

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    1. Thank you Manju! I think they are too.

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  4. WOW! They look GREAT! Super flattering. I also don't like it when you can see the pockets/facings or the impression of them through white/light pants. Love that facing-that's-like-a-waistband too. As my mom would say, make them in every color!! The slim leg style really suits you.

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    1. Thank you Kyle! I find slim fit bottoms help balance me out a little.

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  5. Wow! Awesome! I would like to make a pair of white pants for summmer. Yours are really perfect! Great job!

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    1. Thank you Eli cat! You are so kind. I think I could tweak the back fit a little more but they are a great improvement over pants I find in the stores!

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  6. They. Look. Superb. Your version are a great fit and a shape that suits you. Great work Tomasa.

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    1. Thank you so much velosewer. They are better than the ready-to-wear pants!

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    1. Thank you so much Bunny! I will be experimenting with the back as I make more pants but these certainly fit so much better than ready-to-wear.

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  8. Awesome pants and great fit! I love the waistband treatment you used!

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    1. Thank you Bianca! I think I will use this waistband treatment for all light color bottoms go forward.

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  9. Great job & thanks for all the great tips ! Working up my courage to try pants

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    1. Thank you MaryEllen! Just dive in!

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  10. You did an amazing job! I'm still scared to try pants.

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    1. Thank you! Try not to be scared - dive in using cheap fabrics and different methods. I think the best place to start is with a Burda pant pattern. From what I have read, they have that European cut that my Joyce Murphy pant block is based on.

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  11. These look great. I love the fit and the waist finish is lovely too, Hope you get lots of wear out of these :)

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    1. Thank you Dawn! Yes, I have worn them plenty already!

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  12. You know, I probably wouldn't think about the fit of those RTW at all if I were sitting as you walked past. I would notice the fit of your made to fit though!

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    1. You are right. We have all become so accustomed to wearing ill-fitting ready-to-wear!

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  13. These look great, and you got a terrific fit! :)

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  14. The pants look absolutely perfect on you (definitely better than the RTW pants). Thank you so much for sharing your progress!

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    1. Thank you Tany! Yes, they most definitely fit better than ready to wear.

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