For me, there are times where I can get away with sewing a knit top without a dart if the fabric is stretchy enough. However, not all fabrics are stretchy enough. This week I made a simple grey T-shirt and the fabric, although a knit, required that I use darts for shaping. I thought I would share my method of sewing darts in knits.
The primary concern with sewing a dart in a knit is to sew the dart nice and straight without stretching the fabric as you sew the dart. My solution is to use Solvy Water Soluble Stabilizer.
First, snip mark the dart legs on the edge of the fabric with very small snips, preferably 1/8 inch or less:
Mark the dart point with chalk. I push a pin through from the pattern through to the fabric, gently lift the pattern from the fabric and then chalk mark the point:
I then fold the dart and encase it in a piece of Solvy Water Soluble stabilizer and pin the dart. (Addendum 4/25/17: if you want to save on stabilizer, you can also cut strips instead of encasing the dart. Just make sure the strips don't shift out of place.) Since the stabilizer is see through, you can see your dart. However, if you want a clearer line, you can chalk mark on top of the stabilizer:
Wet the darts or wash the finished garment to dissolve the stabilizer. I then steam press by hovering a steam iron above the dart and patting it down with my hand. While doing so, I put a piece of paper underneath the dart to prevent a ridge from forming on the right side while I steam press. Following is a photo of the wrong side of the dart with the stabilizer dissolved:
Darts aren't always necessary in knits but for the more generously endowed, they are often indispensable for a proper fit.
Very nice tutorial. Thanks.ReplyDelete
Glad you liked it!Delete
That's a nice looking dart!ReplyDelete
Thanks so much!Delete
I agree, that is a nice looking dart. I have never used that stabilizer but I am interested in trying when I sew darts into stretch wovens for skirts. I'll add it to my "supplies to buy" list. :)ReplyDelete
I like it because you can see through it and gets the job done.Delete
Great tutorial! I agree on darts improving the fit of knit tops, just never thought of using water soluble stabilizer for the task!ReplyDelete
Yes, that water soluble stabilizer certainly does the trick!Delete
I agree that darts gives an outfit more shape as in the black dress I just completed. Thanks for sharing this tutorial.ReplyDelete
Yes, that black ponte dress fit you beautifully! You are welcome.Delete
This is brilliant! Thanks for the clear tutorial!ReplyDelete
You are welcome. Glad you liked it!Delete
Great tips! Thanks for taking the time to write a tute :)ReplyDelete
You are welcome! Hope you find it helpful.Delete
This is wonderful! Can anyone help sewing a double-legged/fisheye dart in the waist of a knit dress/jacket/top?ReplyDelete
I'm a fb 35", hb 30", waist 24", hips 35". I'm a true hourglass shape. More often then not, the waist is too big. Due to my large bust and butt, I end up bagging out at the waist and looking pregnant!
Oh, and that woman who makes Creative Feet (can't think of the site) has a wonderful product called Stick N Rinse. Check it out, my fellow seamstresses!!! AMAZING!
Her Creative Feet are cool, but a pain to put on my Pfaff Ambition, but in all seriousness, just at least watch her vids; they're infomercial-like and I love that!
I would experiment and see if the stabilizer would help you with sewing the fisheye dart in a knit. Thanks for the info regarding Stick N Rinse. I must do a search and find out more about it. Sorry for the delayed response. I have settings that notify me when a comment is posted but it doesn't always seem to work.Delete
Outstanding instructions! And they work! Thank you sew much!ReplyDelete
You are welcome Nette! I am glad you found the tutorial to be helpful.Delete
Excellent .. Amazing .. I’ll bookmark your blog and take the feeds also…I’m happy to find so many useful info here in the post, we need work out more techniques in this regard, thanks for sharing.ReplyDelete
Kilgour Savile Row
Great survey, I'm sure you're getting a great response. troja garnReplyDelete
There are unquestionably a wide assortment of sewing machines accessible in the market today, and you should simply figure out what you truly need and you're ready. stitching machineReplyDelete
When making adjustments to the length and width of a stitch, it's possible to produce accurate stitches using a traditional sewing machine but your manual adjustments must be precise. Buy computerized sewing machine online in IndiaReplyDelete
It is made up of heavy duty frame with stainless steel bed plate for smoother and tougher operations on thick fabrics. quilting machinesReplyDelete
Super site! I am Loving it!! Will return once more, Im taking your food likewise, Thanks. Singer 4452 vs singer 4432 machine comparisonsReplyDelete
The main thing for women, when buying underwear for themselves, is comfort. The color and material are usually way down the list of priorities when panty shopping. Toptan fantazi iç giyimReplyDelete
I like this post,And I figure that they having a great time to peruse this post,they might take a decent site to make an information,thanks for sharing it to me. endlesssummerReplyDelete
Situs Judi Slot OnlineReplyDelete