Saturday, March 25, 2017

Ginger Skinny Jeans: A Wearable Muslin

Well, I am happy to say that I have had a great experience with the Ginger Skinny Jeans pattern by Closet Case Patterns  The muslin discussed in my previous post has resulted in a wearable muslin.

The pattern is well-drafted and the details are true to ready-to-wear.  Heather Lou, the designer and founder of Closet Case Patterns, most definitely did her research.  Despite the fact that I mostly live in jeans, there are details in ready-to-wear jeans that I never even thought of until I started working with this pattern.  Not all ready-to-wear jeans are exactly the same of course but when I pulled out my old Gap jeans, I noticed similarities with the Ginger jeans pattern.

One thing was the stitching at the top of the side seam that runs for about 6 inches or so.  Another was how the back pockets curve on the sides of the pockets closest to the center back seam.  Working with this pattern results in a ready-to-wear style of jeans but better because you make it to your liking and fit.

Below you can see the topstitching details and shaping of the back pockets:

Here are my old Gap jeans:

I knew I would be making adjustments to the pattern so I traced the leg patterns so as not to butcher the original pattern.  For this muslin, I took in the side seams and inseams since I have very thin thighs:

I have also determined there are a few more adjustments I need to make on my next pair:

1.  Take in the waistband just a little bit.  The waistband is a little loose and I like waistbands to hug me just a little.

2.  Make a large calf adjustment.  Once I get up from sitting down, they get "stuck" on my calves and then I have to pull them down.  I have the same problem with ready-to-wear but I won't have this problem with my next pair of jeans.

3.  I have excess fabric below the derriere.   There are a lot of suggestions out there as to how to remedy this.  I will be researching and pondering how best to proceed.

I have a good quality medium weight denim I purchased at Mood a long time ago which I will use to make my next pair of jeans.  But now I am in the mood for working with a different fabric...maybe stretch corduroy.  It is still chilly here in the Northeast so if I get started on them soon, maybe I could wear them a couple of times.  We'll see!

Happy sewing!

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Ginger Skinny Jeans: A Muslin

Thanks again everyone for your warmth and heartfelt good wishes!  Well, I am finally sewing again.  It felt so good to sit down and sew.  I have been contemplating sewing a pair of denim jeans for quite some time.  I have seen many positive reviews on Pattern and various blogs of the  Ginger Skinny Jeans pattern by Closet Case patterns so I decided to give it a try.

I started by making a muslin from an inexpensive denim I found in New York City in one of those little fabric stores on 38th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues.  It was only $6 a yard.  Boy is it a sturdy fabric!  It is a little stiff so I pre-washed it 3 times in order to soften it and get all the shrinkage out of the fabric.  This fabric did not fade at all and it is thick and still a little stiff.  Since the bolt did not have the fabric content, I decided to do a burn test to see if I could figure out the fabric content.  The fabric did not melt and left ash which tells me it has cotton but boy this fabric is indestructible!  That's ok, though, especially for a muslin which would be stitched and unstitched and stitched again.

Speaking of unstitching, I have discovered this nifty little seam ripper by Dritz.  I purchased it at JoAnn's.  The rubber tip is amazing!  The package says you use the rubber tip to help you grab the little pieces of threads left behind after you remove a seam but I found it is wonderful in helping you massage the little holes left by the needle and that is what I value most about it.

I used a size 100/16 Singer needle with a 3.0 stitch length and regular all purpose polyester thread for the main seams.  For topstitching, I used the brown color jeans topstitching thread by Coats & Clark with a stitch length of 3.5.  I used the jeans topstitching thread on the top and the regular polyester thread in the bobbin.  I finished the seams with my serger.  I pressed the seams with a steam iron.

For the back patch pockets, I simply freehanded a topstitching design on them.  With muslins, I usually just put together the main pieces to test for fit but since so many have had a positive experience with this pattern, I took my chances and decided to cut and sew all of the pieces in the hope that I would have a wearable muslin in the end.

I decided to make the high waisted version which includes a stay for the tummy.  I made the stay out of woven pre-shrunk non-stretch cotton muslin fabric.  The pattern instructions have you interface the zipper section but I don't think that is necessary for the version with the tummy stay.  The pattern has you attach the stay all the way to the edge of the fly so I believe it can double as interfacing.  I think the stay plus the interfacing plus the fabric folded plus the zipper plus the zipper guard is just too much bulk for my taste.  I will therefore eliminate the interfacing for the next version of this high waisted jean and rely on the stay for stabilizing the zipper area.

For the front of the pant, after I was done inserting the zipper, I traced the topstitching pattern onto cardstock to use as a template.  I simply placed the cardstock on top of the front aligning the straight edge to the center front and traced around the template so I had a guide for topstitching.  I am going to use this handy little template for other pants I make in the future.

Here is the front of the jean:

Here is the back.  I attached the front to the back and discovered, as usual, an excess of fabric below the derriere at the thigh area.  I decided to take in the thigh area at both the side seams and inseams and it helped quite a lot.  I am glad the fabric was so sturdy since I stitched and unstitched the seams several times until I was happy. I used a long machine basting stitch and once I was happy with the fit, I used the regular machine stitch of 3.0.  I still have to attach the belt loops and sew up the hem:

I have large calves so the jeans are a little snug around that area, an issue I encounter with ready-to-wear jeans as well.  I let out the seam at the calf area as much as I could.  They are not tight so I can still wear them but I will definitely be making an adjustment for the next version.

So far, I have discovered this pattern to be well drafted with a good fit.  The pattern instructions are excellent although I had to get used to the illustrations having the white side refer to the right side and the shaded side refer to the wrong side.  (It is the reverse in the big pattern companies which is what I am used to.)  It is important to use stretch denim as suggested by the pattern.  Otherwise, the jeans will turn out too small.

I am pleased with how the muslin turned out.  For my next post, I will model them so you can see the fit.

I encourage anyone contemplating making jeans to try this pattern.  Just dive right in!  If you feel a little unsure, use inexpensive fabric and have a seam ripper handy.

Ginger Skinny Jeans pattern by Closet Case Patterns
Happy sewing!

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Thank you!

Thank you everyone for all of your encouragement and support.  I appreciate all of your comments to my last post and all of the good wishes sent my way.  It is much appreciated and helped very much.

I am finally back home!  Yay!  I thought I would share with you the final steps of this long journey and yes, that means this is my last house construction post.  😊

Below is my house as it is now, elevated and newly sided.  On the left is the addition which now houses the utilities that were in the basement like the furnace, hot water heater, and washer/dryer.  The greatest thing (besides being protected from floods of course) is that now the washer/dryer is on the same level as my living space which is a great convenience.  It makes for a cute little laundry room.  No more going up and down the stairs when I do laundry (and pre-wash fabric).  The space below the house I can use for my fabric stash (ahem) storage.

Below is a photo of what the house looked like before.  Quite different!

Of course, the first rooms I needed to get set up were the bedroom, kitchen and bathroom so many boxes ended up in my sewing room - aaak!

However, I am mostly done unpacking so here is my sewing room now.  I still have to get rid of that ladder and a few boxes not visible in the photo but I am almost there:

Here is one of my favorite sides of the sewing room.  Hanging from the clock is a leather heart keychain which Kyle from Vacuuming the Lawn sent to me as a gift.  In case you are wondering, that circular item is the handle to my steam mop which I have since put away:

Besides all of the love, friendship and support from family, friends and all of you, I also had the company of Zoe, my furry friend, whose cuteness, sweetness and silliness always makes me smile:

Before I started packing for my move back home, I started working on making a pair of jeans so I hope to start working on them again soon.

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, January 22, 2017

Life is Stranger than Fiction

Some of you have been asking how my house is coming along.  While I wanted my next post to be sewing related, alas, it is not obviously.  I had a little bit of a setback.  A few days after the project was completed and we received the Certificate of Occupancy (a document from the town saying that the house has been inspected and it is safe to live in), a pipe burst.  Of course, we were not yet living in the house when this pipe burst so I believe it was spewing water for a day or two before my husband and I discovered it.

The weekend of December 18 got very very cold so the pipes froze.  You prevent pipes from freezing by making sure the house is heated but what we didn't know is that the newly installed heating unit had a defective part so the heat never came on.  So the pipes froze and upon thawing, a pipe burst.

On the left, pipe burst from second floor.  The water flowed from the second floor through my living space all the way down to the crawlspace beneath the house on the right
This discovery was quite a traumatic experience.  I remember my husband and I opening the front door and hearing what sounded like the Niagara Falls inside the house.  The look of panic on my husband's face!  I started shaking like a leaf.  My husband ran downstairs and turned the water main off.  The amount of damage was extensive.  We had to get many walls torn down, dry the wood, and put new walls back up and paint.

I remember going back to my temporary home that day feeling numb.  I believe I sat in the living room for about 1 1/2 hours just staring into space unable to speak or do anything.  Looking back now, it is almost comical.  We go through all this trouble to raise the house to prevent flooding, but the house floods anyway but from the inside.  Go Figure!

Luckily, our contractor started working on repairs immediately.  Fast forward...the damaged pipe has been repaired.  The defective part in the heating unit has been replaced.  We have heat in the house and the repairs have been completed. The repairs left an enormous amount of drywall dust all over so I have been spending the weekends cleaning.  We have plans to move back to the house the end of January so I will be taking a few days off during the week to pack.

We will be back home soon - yay!

Wednesday, January 18, 2017

What an Honor!

Rhonda Buss, author of the blog, Rhonda's Creative Life, has a weekly column called The Wednesday Showcase in which she features fellow sewing bloggers.  I am so happy to say that Rhonda has featured me and my blog in her fabulous column.  You can read it by clicking here.

Rhonda is a true professional.  Check out her blog and you will see the impeccable workmanship of her garments.  She writes for Sew News magazine and is currently pursuing the Master Sewing and Design Certification by the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals.

In addition to beautiful garments, she also shares many delicious recipes and inspirational quotes.  It is a blog full of all sorts of eye candy and valuable information so do check it out!

Sunday, November 27, 2016

Sewing Plans and the House

Hello All!  It's been quite a while since I have posted.  I have been focused on the house plus I have had a spell of very long days at work.  While I enjoy my temporary home, it has lengthened my commute quite a bit.  Sometimes it takes me 2 hours one way!  I get home rather late and quite tired so I have had little time for sewing.

Regardless, I do have sewing plans.  Whether I can achieve them in the near future remains to be seen.  I purchased this lovely cotton print knit at NY Elegant Fabrics.  I like the autumnal colors as well as the "dusty" look it has.  I really love how it looks against the charcoal grey corduroy I purchased at Mood Fabrics in NYC.

I have already sewn up the printed knit jersey into a long-sleeved crew neck top.  Nothing fancy. The charcoal grey fabric is absolutely beautiful.  It is a medium weight fine wale corduroy, very soft and it feels luxurious.  I want to make a pair of jean style corduroy pants out of this fabric.  However, I have decided to make a muslin first.  I have a light grey medium weight corduroy in my stash that I am using as a muslin.  If it comes out reasonably well (I hope), maybe it can be a wearable muslin.

Since I had a long 5 day weekend for Thanksgiving, I was able to draft the pant pattern and cut it out in the muslin fabric.  Back to the routine tomorrow, though, so I don't know when I will pick this up again.

I have very little spare time during the week and the time I do have I spend reviewing and preparing paperwork and answering emails regarding the house.  As I said in a previous post, I am the recipient of grant money from the State of NJ for homeowners who suffered property damage due to Hurricane Sandy.  The grant covers part of the cost for elevating the house.  Of course, it brings with it quite a lot of paperwork that needs to be reviewed and submitted within certain deadlines.   

On the left, papers filed.  On the right, papers to be filed.
The weekends I spend doing chores and running errands as well as visiting the job site and recording the week's progress.  The contractor is close to finishing up.  I am working with the power company so that the gas meters can be installed.  There's still quite a few odds and ends but we are close to finishing....just in time for the holidays!  So I foresee lots of cleaning up and packing while in the midst of Christmas I don't know when I will get sewing again - bummer.

Regardless, for those of you celebrating the upcoming holidays, I wish you all a safe and happy holiday season.

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, September 25, 2016

An Interesting Print, Laziness and Fold Over Elastic

Recently, I purchased a printed rayon knit fabric from Mood Fabrics in NYC on MPB day in August. I was drawn to the fabric because of the colors and the print.  The print looks like various photographic images of city scenes.  After I purchased it, I didn't like it because it seemed dark and somber.  Determined not to have wasted my money, I cut out and sewed this self-drafted top so now I like the fabric again.  It's unique and it fits well.

This is a print requiring thought and planning as to where certain images would be placed.  However, feelings of laziness set in, probably because I was not feeling too excited about the fabric at the time,  and I was going to cut it on the double.  Luckily, I had gotten together with a dear sewing friend who urged me to cut it single layer so I could plan where the images would go.  It took less than 5 minutes to copy the pattern so that I had both the left and right sides in one pattern piece for the front.  I am so glad she intervened!

Below is a closeup of the fabric:

You can see buildings, cobblestone streets, people walking along a sidewalk, rain falling.  Could you imagine if I had the images of people walking across my sizable chest or a red blotch?  Not good!  Crisis averted.

Before working on this top, I had seen a blog post by Anne Whalley about a beautiful dress she had made where she finished the neckline edge with fold over elastic.  I loved it.  I also had seen what a great job Kyle from Vacuuming the Lawn had done with a lace tank and skirt set she made where she used fold over elastic to finish the tank's neckline and make the straps.  I decided to give it a try.

Since this was my first time using fold over elastic, I relied heavily on my old stand by:  hand basting.  Below are the steps I followed.  I am sure there are those of you out there who can apply this with no or very little basting (practice makes perfect) but this is what worked for me for now.

As you can see from the photo below, the fold over elastic has an indentation along the middle where you fold it.  Once you fold it, one side is actually slightly larger than the other side.  This is so you can place the larger side underneath the fashion fabric and the smaller side on top, so that when you topstitch it on top, the stitching catches the larger side underneath.

1.  I placed the raw edge of the fabric on top of the larger side of the elastic with the raw edge meeting the indentation.

2.  I then hand basted it in place.  I pulled the elastic just a bit as I was basting -- this is important so that the elastic will lay flat against your body.  As I basted, I also made sure to feel and check with my fingers that the bottom side of the elastic did not shift and remained larger than the top.  Below you can see the ripples caused by stretching the elastic which will not show when you put on the garment (as long as you didn't stretch too much).

3.  I then folded the remaining elastic over to the right side and basted again.

4.  I then topstitched it close to the edge on the right side and removed all of the basting.  You can see below how the stitching caught the elastic at the bottom.

I am very pleased with this new-to-me neckline finish.  It was the first time I used it but it won't be my last!

Happy Sewing!